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NT 01

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This project started at the beginning of April. the main motivation for building these noise boxes was to create a product that could be sold easily to try and recoup some of my losses from going a month over my deadline with the Ivan synth. it seems like everywhere i go, people are selling Atari-Punk-Consoles, and other simple square-wave drone synths. the one thing that most of them are lacking is any kind of design aesthetic, so i figured i might be at an advantage there. i got to work designing a wood console for them using my google sketchup demo.

I had recently built a hot-wire acrylic bender. this was the perfect opportunity to use it. i designed the face-plate to have two folds that follow the shape of the console. 
Coming up with a circuit was pretty straight forward. all it really had to do was out-perform the APC. i wanted to keep the cost as low as possible so that i could sell these boxes for less, but still spend some time personalizing each one. the circuit is comprised of one square wave 'voice' oscillator. the oscillator's timing capacitor is hooked up to 10 capacitor-bank switch that is controlled by an LM3914 chip. the LM3914 chip is designed to be used as an analog level meter. there is one analog input, and 10 outputs for driving LEDs. i had originally bought these chips with the intention of using them as sequencers, but soon ran in to the issue of the 10 outputs overlapping with each other. there are lots of other creative ways to use these chips too though. my design was inspired by a schematic i had seen of an LED level meter being used as a Comb-filter. a small capacitor would be connected to each output. the other ends of the 10 capacitors would then be connected to the timing capacitor terminal in the oscillator circuit. the higher the input voltage to the LM3914, the more capacitors are sourced. this effect creates a very crude transposing/staccato sound up and down 11 octaves in total. additionally the 'voice' oscillator can pitched lineally. controlling the pitch and the transpose parameters can be done using either the X axis of the second joystick(CV-1), or the slide pot(CV-2). there is a switch that will swap the two parameters between CV-1 and CV-2. 
The square-wave voice is sent through a frequency divider. four sub-octaves are then mixed back together with the 'wave-shape' joystick. the output is sent through a vactrol-based VCA before the output stage. the VCA i set by the 'VCA threshold' slide pot. the circuit also includes an LFO. the LFO is a triangle wave, but can be set as a sawtooth, or reverse-sawtooth wave at double the LFO speed using the two 'LFO Shape' buttons. when both buttons are pressed, the LFO is a narrow pulse-wave set to the LFO's maximum speed. the LFO can be set to modulate the pitch, transpose, or VCA of the 'voice' oscillator. if the LFO is engaged, the hardware of the parameter it is set to will act as a threshold control for the LFO. the LFO's rate is set by the Y axis of the second joystick. 
 Additionally, there are four CV inputs for VCA, CV-1, CV-2, and LFO rate. when the CV inputs are in use, the respective parameter's hardware is used to set the CV input threshold to the parameter. CV-1, CV-2, and LFO rate are all vactrol-coupled. because each vactrol's response varies, some level of filtering should be expected. inputting a square-wave LFO to a vactrol-coupled CV input will likely produce rounded edges. this kind of gives it character though. after all, these are not intended to be used as precision test equipment. there is also a buffered LFO CV output jack. with 'modular-synth' being as popular as it is today, i thought that this stuff might appeal to people starting out. 

The noise box also has a line out jack, a 9 volt DC input jack, a 9 volt battery compartment, a power switch, and a pretty loud built in speaker. the DC input jack is regulated and reverse-voltage protected, so it can handle anything between 9 and 18 volts. the circuit has a lot of LEDs in it, so you would think the current consumption would be pretty high, but actually, at full volume the entire circuit only draws about 70ma from the battery. 
 The prototype took about three or four weeks to design and build. once it was finished, i redesigned my circuit board, and built three more. each one has its own color scheme. depending on whether or not these first four sell, i may build more in the future. for now though, i am going to experiment with some other circuit designs. my plan is to build small batches of different circuits, all built with the same enclosure with modular inputs and outputs. until recently, i had been working on an idea to use the ISD1820 voice sampler chip for the next series, but unfortunately those ISD chips are just not good enough... oh well, i'm sure i'll think of something else. any suggestions?

NT02

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This is the latest set of NT(noystoise) series novelty synthesizers. following the overwhelming reception of the original NT01 series, it was pretty clear that if i build them, they will sell. the NT02 is simpler in many ways than the original NT01, but the sound and character are a bit more sophisticated than that of the NT01. the NT02 consists of a square wave VCO with chorus/delay, a white noise generator, a ramp LFO, and individual 12db resonant lowpass filters for the VCO and white noise generator. the pitch of the VCO is controlled by one axis of the VCO joystick, while the other axis controls the delay time of the chorus. the chorus circuit is basically just your typical PT2399 delay chip setup, except there is no feedback loop. the VCO is fed to the delay chip, and the delayed signal is recombined with the initial signal before the filter stage. the effect makes the VCO sound much bigger and warmer with the chorusing effect. almost like an old analog poly-synth with detuned VCOs. the white noise generator is your basic two transistor type found in many old synth designs. a common issue with the two transistor noise generators is that they require at least 9 to 10 volts to operate. that's just fine if you are using a plug in power supply, but when using a 9 volt battery, the noise generator usually wont work. in my case, the noise generator wouldn't sound with any less than 10 volts. however, the noise generator doesn't draw all that much current, so i simply used a 555 charge pump voltage multiplier to get the circuit where it needed to be. the problem i ran in to on the breadboard though, was there was some cross-talk from the 555 charge pump oscillator to the VCO, so i only used the 555 charge pump method for the first NT02(revA). for the others i simply buffered the VCO, and made a charge pump out of that. this way, if there was any cross-talk, it would be harmonized and unnoticeable. however, once the NT02 revA was built and working, the cross-talk was gone, so i guess it wasn't necessary. both the VCO and the white noise generator have their own respective filter with resonance control. the cutoff frequency of both filters are controlled by their respective axis on the VCF joystick. the center switch on the joystick toggles either the VCO or noise voice on or off depending on which joystick switch you press. each voice will remain on or off until the switch is pressed again. this feature was not included in the revA NT02. its voices are permanently on. the NT02's LFO is ramp shaped and can be set to modulate one of four parameters, or turned off. the LFO can modulate either the chorus delay time, VCO pitch, VCO filter cutoff, or the noise filter cutoff. on the revA NT02, the VCO pitch setting controls the maximum threshold of the pitch joystick, whereas the revB VCO pitch setting is independent of the pitch joystick. the LFO rate is controlled by the knob above the VCF joystick. the NT02 also has a volume knob, a 1/4 inch switching line out jack that bypasses the built in speaker when plugged in, and a center positive polarity protected DC jack that bypasses the internal battery when plugged in. the internal power supply is regulated, so any DC adapter between 9 and 18 volts will work just fine. unfortunately, unlike the NT01, the NT02 does not have CV inputs or outputs. the NT02 revA(black one) does have two 0-5 volt CV inputs for the VCO and LFO, but the revB models do not because their circuits' operating voltage is 8vdc instead of 5, which is kind of an unusual number... i would have liked to have scaled CV inputs that could turn 0-5 volt CV input to the necessary 1-8 volt CV input that the VCFs, VCO, and LFO require, but space was too limited. the inputs are in there though. i still kind of regret not including the ability to connect CV inputs to the NT02, but it is just safer this way. these were not intended as modular synths. they can be easily modified though, for any advanced users out there. hopefully these little synths do as well as the NT01 did so i can start on an NT03... the NT02s will be available at my for sale page until they are all gone. have a look, tell your friends about this BLOG!!!
Thanks for reading,
Tanner



WIRING HARNESS AND ASSEMBLY LINE





REV-B PCB (a ton of parts)

MUG SHOTS













ALL TOGETHER

AWW.




VIDEO

NT03

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Ahhh... internet at last. been having trouble with my connection for the past week or so. haven't had the opportunity to post. the NT03 is the latest of my NT(noystoise) series. i initially started developing the NT03 in early November of 2014. the first of the six was completed at the beginning of December, but a commission came my way, so i put the rest on hold for a month before finally finishing them all. unfortunately the commission fell through. thankfully it was only one month wasted. hoping to quickly recoup my losses, i cranked out the final five NT03's in record time(two weeks), only to find that my 3 month old CenturyLink DSL router was all dried out. one after another, i finally got a replacement that works(for now). now to catch up!













The NT03 consists of two square wave voltage controlled oscillators, a holtek voice modulator circuit, a voltage controlled filter(VCF), and a low frequency oscillator(LFO) that can either/or modulate the filter cutoff, gate the voice modulator transpose sequencer.



The two VCOs are made up of one 74LS124 dual VCO chip. i was able to get a pretty good deal on these chips some years ago, but i haven't really put them to much use. this felt like a good opportunity to use them. i also had a few holtek HT8950 chips that needed to be used. the HT8950 is basically just what you would find in one of those toy megaphones that turns your voice into a robot voice(all circuit benders should know what i'm talking about). the difference in the HT8950 is that in addition to being able to incrementally select the pitch setting of the modulator, there is also a three bit parallel input that can be used to select the chips' eight pitch settings; Robot, x2, x1.6, x1.3, x1, x.9, x.8, x.6. the sample rate(BIT RATE) is resistor set. initially i tried clocking the UP/DOWN inputs on the 8950 with an external oscillator, but found that there is a pretty significant debounce protocol built in. this makes it difficult to achieve faster transitions at lower sample rates, so instead, i built an eight step parallel sequencer from the CD4029 chip. this way the eight pitch modes can be accessed quickly with no debounce(latency/stutter). the sequencer can also advance in either direction.


After the two VCOs are mixed and sent through the voice modulator, they are then sent to a resonant 12db lowpass filter(VCF). the filter's cutoff can be modulated with an envelope derived from the sequencer clock, but the attack and decay of the envelope are preset. the filter cutoff, pitch of VCOs 1&2, and the sequencer clock rate are all controlled by one of four joystick axis. the 3D joysticks are a recurring theme in my NT series. this time i decided to use all white thumbsticks, just because they seem to go with everything. they do tend to get dirty though..


  

Each of the four joystick parameters can also be controlled externally, although the joystick still controls the maximum threshold of the incoming control voltages(CV). the frequency of the sequencer clock cannot be controlled with a CV, but it can accept incoming clock, or negative going gates. the sequencer clock can be triggered internally and/or externally. to advance the sequence internally, there is an 'ENABLE' switch, and a 'DIRECTION' switch. the DIRECTION switch controls the direction of the sequence with either internal or external clock advance input.



The NT03 also includes BIT-RATE control, resonance control(Q), VCF MOD switch(on/off), POWER switch, VOLUME control, LINE OUT, clock rate LED, and center positive 9VDC supply input jack. the NT03 draws about 60ma max, and can also be powered by internal 9v battery.






The NT03 enclosures are made from laser-cut plywood and laser-cut acrylic faceplates. everything is made inhouse(in my house) from scratch. when i finished the first NT03, i had originally intended on painting them all primary or secondary 'candy' colors. hence the yellow one. after some time away from the project though, i thought it might be nice to come up with some colors of my own. i ended up mixing all of the colors for the final five by eye. some are a clean wash, and some ended up with some inconsistencies. namely the olive green one that has my big fat finger print in it. i suppose i could fix it or change the color, but despite the imperfection, it still looks really clean. if no one buys it, i'll just have to keep this one for myself.

BUNNY CIRCUIT

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Wow, been a busy summer! been slowly chipping away at this waiting list i have accumulated over the past few months. to everyone who has waited, thanks for hangin' in there! i'm doing the best i can to get to all of you. that said, i am not adding to the list until i can get through some first.


This project was a commission for an artist who needed a circuit to add to one of his installation pieces. the intent was to have the circuit and all of its hardware be removable from the temporary enclosure, so that it could be installed in the installation piece at a later time. this seemed easy enough in theory, but was actually pretty complicated. it is hard to know what vulnerabilities exist in the wiring when you are looking at it through someone else's eyes.  i did my best to make things as strong and clean as possible. that in itself was a real challenge since the circuit was pretty complex for the amount of hardware it uses. 




The piece was designed to have maximum sonic flexibility through the use of only two analog joysticks. this was because in the art-installation application, the analog joysticks would be the only thing to be used. the customer was OK with having simple functions, since there are really a limited number of things you can do with four joystick axis(four), but i convinced him that i could cram some more functions in to it that could be toggled by the joysticks' center push switches, and still be small enough to fit into a small enclosure. i ended up biting off more than i could chew, as always, but after some backtracking, we came up with a good signal path that had enough flexibility that it was not boring, but not so much complexity that the enclosure would have to be substantially larger. 



This project took a lot of back and forth. over the past few months that i have been working on a commission basis, i have really been learning a lot about communication, and it has really been great. i really feel like i am getting better and better at giving people what they want, and whining less about why it is difficult for me to do. anyway, back on topic. it was really great to work with this particular artist and talk with him on the phone. that rarely happens. in fact, lately it has been rare that i work for someone who lives in the US!



Anyway, back to the circuit. the circuit consists of one square-wave VCO that is fed to a 12db lowpass filter with a fixed resonance. the signal is then sent to a VCA, and finally a PT2399 delay before being sent to the power-amp and output section. there is also one triangle LFO that can be toggled on or off to modulate the VCO or VCF. the LFO can modulate the VCA in a kind of interesting way. on one joystick axis, the VCA can be controlled manually from center(full-off) to one outer direction, and in the other direction from center, can control the depth of the LFO to the VCA. this was a pretty fun circuit to design and i will definitely be using it again someday. the center-push switches of the two joysticks are hooked up to a counter chip that sequences through the LFO modulation combinations, as well as turns the PT2399 on or off, and switches the LFO range to high or low. in all, there are 16 different mode combinations possible. there are four mode LEDs that indicate when a mode is active or not. the VCA also has a manual gate switch that opens up the VCA to full when pressed. the volume control knob has the power switch built in, so when the master volume is turned all the way down(counter-clockwise), the power clicks off. i also added CV inputs. the CV inputs simply bypass the positive rail to the joysticks, so the joysticks act as threshold controls for the CV inputs.



Because this was only to be a temporary enclosure for the circuit, i used an enclosure from my NT series. i had an extra box from the NT01 series, so i used it. it was a really good fit too. 
:)


NT04

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 Yikes!!... Nearly two years since my last post.
Well, i haven't had too much time for electronics since i went back to work as a cook. Selling my custom instruments for three years didn't really pan out, and i was forced to rejoin the wage-earners. Not really a bad thing, though. It is nice to be around people again. Especially cooks. They(we) are the best(worst) kind of people you will ever meet. 
Oh yeah, i'm a dad now too. Needless to say my time for electronics has become extremely scarce, but i have still found time for little things like repairs for friends, developing circuits for future projects, and also a lot of circuit bending digital cameras. More on that later...

About a year ago, before i found out i was going to be a daddy, work in the kitchen was slowing down. My boss was having trouble finding hours for me, so i was only working about two days per week, which was fine with me at the time. I had more time for electronics. In fact, a lot of time. I had so much time i decided to come up with a new NT model, and really try to do it right so that i could make a lot of them. Coming up with the circuit was one thing, but i wanted these new noise-makers to be clean and organized. I also wanted to be able to fit as much as possible into them. So i sat down and learned how to design my own printed circuit boards(PCB's) with some really great, free software, KiCAD. I highly recommend this software if you aren't already using something else. It is very easy to learn, and very easy to draw your own parts, which can be very useful.
So as long as i am designing my own PCB's why not go surface mount? Hell yes! I made a small investment in surface mount parts from ebay. This is really the way to go. The parts are insanely cheap, and very easy to store and keep organized. No more piles of cut-off component leads all over the place. 

(SMD parts... thousands and thousands)

Once i was confident with my first PCB designs, i sent them off to be made in china by Seeedstudio. They are super cheap, and the quality is very nice for the scale i am working at. The only catch is the shipping cost, but at least shipping is fast, and they track, so it's worth it in the end. It can really add up though when your design has mistakes and you have to keep reordering several times like i did, but i guess that is just the price you pay for this kind of thing. In fact, it would have been a miracle if it was perfect the first time, and i knew that going in. 


So, the plan was to come up with a super slick project file for the NT04 so that i could build them easily, even if years had gone by. I generally try to take good notes on all of my projects, and update them as i go, but it is sometimes hard to know what is important information for the future when you are immersed in the moment. So i would keep an inventory list of all of the components needed and have all files and diagrams updated and organized... Yeah right, still working on that. 

(sanding, painting boxes)

Work picked back up in the kitchen, and i had to put the NT04 on hold for a whole year. I had nearly assembled six by the time i put the project on hold. They just needed main boards and wiring. Thankfully i had successfully built one working unit before the hiatus, so at least i knew the design worked. 
Fast forward to now, i am only working two days per week again, but i am a Mr. Mom now. There is still not much time for electronics, but there has been enough time to finish the six NT04's i started. 

Ok, so what's inside the NT04? 
 The NT04 is a programmable 8-step sequencer with 8 touch sensors, and one tuning knob. When you touch a sensor, the sequencer will jump to that step, and the step will be held as long as you are touching it. When you let go of the sensor, the sequencer will continue from that point. The sequencer can also be turned off with the run switch(run), and the touch sensors can be used like a keyboard. When the record button(rec) is on, and a touch sensor is pressed, that sensor's respective step will record the setting of the pitch knob(ptch). Each step has its own LED indicator. The sequencer can run in either direction depending on the up-down switch(u d). If the sequencer is in down mode, reverse mode(rvrs) can be enabled. Reverse mode is simply another clock signal that toggles the sequencer between up and down mode. The rate of the reverse clock can be set with the "rvrs" knob. Both the sequencer rate and pitch setting can be controlled with the Y axis of the joystick when each's respective "joy" switch is toggled. The sequencer clock rate can be modulated with the sequencer's recorded steps. The "sqnc" switch sends the CV sequence to the sequencer clock VCO for some weird swinging rhythms. 

The sequencer modulates a pretty basic square-wave VCO (VB). VB has four modes; normal(3), -1 octave(2), -2 octaves(1), and XOR. XOR is kind of like a ring modulator but for square waves. VB is the carrier, and VA is the modulator(or vice-versa). VA is PLL VCO that tracks the frequency of VB. The tracking filter of the PLL is intentionally designed to be inefficient for its wild phasing, chirps, buzzes and other strange but consistent anomalies. The VA track knob adjusts the tracking filter from jittery-fast to portamento-slow. The VA tracking filter also has two additional filter modes, "B" and "C", which are really just different sized filter capacitors for more crazy ranges for the PLL VCO. If that wasn't enough, there PLL VCO also has four octave ranges that can be set with the VA "range" switch.  VA-4 is matched with VB-3, and VA 3-1 are all octaves up. The VA tracking filter can be modulated by the X axis of the joystick when its "joy" switch is toggled. Both VA and VB are mixed together with simple on/off switches (VA and VB) before being sent to a 12db lowpass VCF. 

The VCF has a cutoff knob and a resonance knob. The cutoff can be modulated by the X axis of the joystick if its "joy" switch is toggled. The VCF can also be modulated by a simple envelope generator. The envelope generator has an on/off switch and a decay knob. The depth of the EG is set to mid range, so the initial cutoff setting sets the overall range. When the sequencer is disengaged, the EG can be triggered by the touch sensors. The decay of the envelope generator can be modulated by the X axis of the joystick if its "joy" switch is toggled. 

After the filter stage, the signal is sent through a volume control knob, and out to the speaker or 1/4 inch line out. The NT04 can be powered with a 9 volt battery or a standard 9 volt adapter. Additionally, there are two clock sync jacks. One is input, the other is output. The output will send either clock signals or trigger signals, depending on whether sequencer is in "run" mode or not. Any signal coming to the input will advance the sequencer whether the sequencer is in "run" mode or not, the only difference is that when in run mode, the input signal can trigger the EG. Any signal input will be sent to the unit's output, so syncing multiple units in series is possible.
Wow, what a mouth full!

(faceplate)

(sanded box unpainted)

(gut-shots and failed prototype on the left)

(assembly)

(wiring)

(group)

VIDEO
Here is a quick video that covers some basic functionality and sync-ing options.


SEAFOAM

 

WHITE WONDER


ORANGE/GREEN


RED/BLUE


BURGUNDY


BLUE/LEGO



(Making 9 volt battery compartment work)
These plastic 9 volt battery compartments can be pretty useful. Unfortunately they do not come with terminals, and using wire-lead snap-connectors makes changing the battery a pain, so installing terminals is a must. First i created a drill hole guide for the terminals. Then using battery terminal springs, m2 screws, m2 lock washers, m2 nuts and solder tab eyelets(all found on ebay), bolted the terminals to the bottom of the battery compartment. Lining up the screw through the spring and into the hole inside the compartment was tricky, but i found the best solution was to use a little piece of tape to wrap the screw and screwdriver together, and then push the screw through. More effort, but saved time in the long run.





"UH YEAR" REVISITED

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Got a friendly message from none other than Mike Walters of Mystery Circuits. He had been tasked with repairing an odd-looking synth that resembled something I would make. Sure enough, it was the heavily modified Yamaha PSS-30 I had built on commission some 8 years ago. I let him know that the keyboard was probably a total mess inside, being that it was one of my earlier mods, and that it would be easier for me to have a go at it since I built it. The owner was OK with it, so he sent it my way. I always love seeing my old creations years later. I sometimes wish i could go back in time and help my former self with advice or some basic knowledge I've learned through experience. Needless to say, the PSS-30 was a total mess that not even I could decipher... the keyboard was still pretty much functional, with the exception of a few broken wires inside and some sticky switches. However, the audio signal path was just so dark and thin. I was not great at mixing signals at this time in my modding career. I really wanted to rebuild some of the circuitry inside, and get a good strong signal, but the pile of circuits all nested together were too annoying to try and separate and reverse engineer, so I decided to just rip everything out, and rebuild it all properly. The theory of the mods were all pretty basic, so I was confident I could rebuild it in no time. Of course it ended up taking a lot longer than I thought it would. I have tried to make time for electronics when I can, but being a dad takes all the best hours of the day. I am able to squeeze in a few hours after my kid goes to bed, but those late night hours are never as productive as a fresh day to myself. Oh well, I'll take what I can get. 


I was able to re-design and rebuild everything over the course of a few weeks. I ended up making a lot of changes to it to make it more stable and usable. For one thing, I replaced the 74LS624 pitch oscillator with an LTC1799. This gives the sequencer a lot more range, and the LTC1799 uses a lot less power. I replaced the crappy AR generator with 555 timer type. There was a knob labeled "release" that really just controlled the trigger length of the original AR generator. Since it had no use in the 555 circuit, I created a voltage divider and sent it to pin 5 on the 555. It acts as sort of a range control. At lower attack and release times, the range control will hold the envelope at its peak for a good while before releasing. I replaced the drum voice circuit, too, with an arduino with four PCM drum sounds. The original drum sounds were analog, but needed a gate-to-trigger circuit for each one, and the "accent" knobs were actually more of depth/decay controls. each drum sound would have to be fine tuned to be rebuilt, and I didn't think it was really worth it for those sounds. Instead, I programmed an arduino with some code from DSP SYNTH with some custom drum sounds. The "accent" knobs now control the pitch(bitrate) of the individual samples. Other than that, everything else is pretty much the same. At least functionally, that is. It was a lot of fun rebuilding this thing, and it was great to get reacquainted with my workshop. I am feeling confident that I will be able to spend more time building electronics and tinkering with new ideas, so keep watching for more to come. And thank you to everyone out there that is still reading my blog and writing to me. It is very encouraging to get your emails.

BEFORE

BEFORE

BEFORE

BEFORE

AFTER

AFTER

AFTER


 



IVAN

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This commission started near the beginning of January of 2014. it took approximately three months to design and build. it was only supposed to take two months, but was realistically impossible for a project of this scale. in the past, projects of this caliber have taken between six and twelve months to complete, so i guess i don't really have much to complain about. i have been playing catch-up ever since though. i haven't had much time to post the details on it until now. i will have to make this one short.
The criteria for this synth was based around a few key aspects; dark, warm, heavy, deep, and Russian. with those themes in mind, i began designing the enclosure first and foremost. once the buyer agreed on the final design, i got to work converting the drawing into three dimensional parts that could be laser-cut, then assembled.
Once the enclosure was cut, assembled, and dry, it was time to give it tolex. the tolex was a bit tricky this time around. i had run out of my preferred brand of contact cement, and had to settle for some really nasty industrial grade stuff. the industrial stuff is great if you need to laminate 100 square feet of linoleum, but for my needs the non-flammable DAP is the way to go.

While waiting between assembly processes, i began designing the circuits for the synth. the synth would be based around Kevin Godwin's PICsynth V4 chip. the chip is a four octave mono-synth with two oscillators that can be detuned. it has three types of portamento and an 8-step arpeggio with three modes and variable speeds. the PICsynth really takes all the BS out of building or modding a keyboard. it is straight forward and works well, so it was an easy choice over reverse engineering a toy organ to get similar results.

Most of the the things i have built have a lot of the characteristics you might find on more traditional synths, so i always make an effort to emphasize unusual characteristics that are not as common. for this synth i wanted to bring in after-touch. after-touch basically means that the keys will be pressure sensitive. the harder you press, the deeper the modulation. the modulation signal can then be shaped and sent to control any number of the synth's parameters.  i had built a pretty excellent after-touch system on the yamaha PS-3 build, and i wanted to go even further with this one. 
 
once the keyboard and after-touch sensor were tested and working, i began designing the signal path for the two square-wave oscillators coming from the PICsynth chip. i created two identical signal chains that would meet up at the end of their respective modulation stages to then be sent to some more modulation. each square-wave voice starts out by being divided into four sub-octaves, then mixed back together with a 'wave-shape' joystick. after that, the signal would be sent through a 'digital-distortion' circuit based around the holtek HT8950 chip. the intended purpose of the ht8950 is to be used as a robot voice changer or voice pitch changer. it does a terrible job at both. however it excels as a tunable distortion/bit-reducer. in my opinion it is much more useful than the traditional method of running the audio through an analog-to-digital converter alone. the bit-rate can be tuned lineally, then transposed to 2/1, 8/5, 4/3, 1/1, 8/9, 4/5, or 2/3. both the bit-rate and transpose functions can be set manually or with the after-touch. the 'digital-distortion' stage can also be mixed with the initial signal or completely bypassed with the wet/dry mix, or 'distortion bypass' knob. after the 'digital-distortion' stage, the signal is then sent to the 'chorus' stage. this stage basically acts as a delay with no feedback. the circuit is based around the pt2399. the delay time can be set by the 'chorus threshold' knob or by the after-touch. the delay time also has a dedicated LFO. while engaged, the 'chorus threshold' knob sets the depth of the LFO to the delay time. the LFO rate can be set with the 'chorus LFO rate' knob, or by the after-touch. like the distortion stage, the chorus stage too can be mixed with the initial signal or bypassed with the 'chorus bypass' knob. after the chorus stage, the signal is sent to the filter stage. the filters are OTA based 12db low-pass filters. each of the two voices has a dedicated filter, attack/decay envelope, initial cut-off control, envelope depth control, and envelope LFO. while engaged, the 'envelope LFO' rate can be controlled by its respective knob or by the after-touch. after the filter stage, each voice is sent to its own VCA. the two VCAs share one common ADSR envelope, but each voice has its own envelope depth control. like the filter stages, the VCA too has an 'envelope LFO'. the rate can be set by the 'VCA LFO rate' knob, or by the after-touch. after the two signals are mixed by VCA stage, the combined signal is sent to the 'effect' stage. the effect stage is a modified Behringer delay pedal. originally the pedal was set up as an usual digital slap-back delay pedal. the pedal employs the coolAudio V1000 multi-effects DSP. the chip is controlled by an atmega chip with a custom Behringer program to utilize some of the DSP's delay features. there are four CV inputs to the atmega chip to control Level, Feedback, Time, and Mode via 50k potentiometers. initially i thought it would be 'cool' to send CV's to the inputs to control each parameter, but i found the zippery response pretty off-putting. then i fried the analog input to the time CV on the atmega... i decided to disconnect the atmega and simply run the V1000 chip's presets. it has a total of 16 different delays, reverbs, and filters. trying to reverse engineer these pedals is pretty much impossible since the circuit boards are multi-layered with tiny tracings, but once all of the excess hardware was removed, the effect worked like a charm. i used a four bit rotary encoder as a mode select switch, and i replaced the clock oscillator with a 74ls124 voltage controlled oscillator. the VCO has two CV inputs; FX CV-1, and FX CV-2. each can be set by its respective slide pot, or by the after-touch. the effect stage has a wet/dry bypass knob as well. this stage of the signal path ended up being way more powerful than i expected. adding clock control to these DSPs is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! after the effect stage, the signal is sent to the power-amp that drives the built-in speakers.
The after-touch section is similar to that of the yamaha PS-3 mod in some ways. like the PS-3, it has multiple channels, each with its own shape, depth, and direction controls, but this synth has four channels instead of the PS-3's three. each channel can be set to one of four control parameters, so the after-touch can control up to four parameters at once. each of the four channels also has its own 'joy/key' switch to select between the after-touch sensor input, or the joystick sensor input. channels A and B can be set to the Y axis, and channels C and D can be set to the X axis.
Once all of the circuits were working, it was time to design and cut the circuit boards using a CNC engraver. after that they would need to be assembled and wired up. while assembling the circuits and wiring up all of the hardware, i used cardboard mock-up face plates to hold everything together. if i had used the final-draft face plates, they would have likely become damaged by the intrusive process of connecting and debugging all of the hardware. once it was all working properly, then i could focus more on the design of the interface. the buyer had one more request that came in just in time, because i was just about to cut the final-draft face plates. he asked if it was possible to add an audio input for processing external signals. seemed simple enough so i said sure! unfortunately it was a pretty difficult circuit to build 'in-circuit'. the input would take the place of OSC2 when engaged. unfortunately all of those signal processing circuits that i had already built were really only set up for nice clean waveforms. plugging in guitar or other audio sources sounded pretty weak in comparison... after spending a couple of weeks on it, i came to the conclusion that there was no way to make it sound better without completely overhauling the signal path. and really, the quality wasn't so terrible. just not ideal. i explained to the buyer that it was doable but it would be limited, and he didn't mind, so i added it in. i also included an input volume control and an analog level meter so that the signal can be leveled before plugging it in to the signal path. 
Once i was sure that all of the circuitry was finished and working, i then cut the face plates. i chose white and red text on a gray background. once the face plates were cut and dry, i swapped out my now very tattered cardboard mock-up panels with the final-draft. from that point everything seemed like it was coming to a close, but there was still a lot of little things to do. i still had to cut the back panels, the bottom metal plate, and i still had to laminate and stain the wood cheeks that i had been neglecting.










 













The back and bottom plates were pretty easy, but the cheeks gave me real problems. unfortunately i didn't wait long enough for my industrial grade contact cement to set up on the surfaces of the cheeks and wood veneer before i pressed them together. they were still wet a couple of days later when i applied the stain. a couple of days after that i coated the cheeks in polyurethane. it seemed like it went on just fine, but when i came back a few hours later, giant bubbles had formed underneath the wood veneer. i sanded all of the polyurethane off hoping that i could salvage the cheeks. actually, only one cheek was effected, but the wood grain matched symmetrically, so losing one meant losing both. unfortunately it was a losing battle. the stain and the contact cement had combined and somehow dissolved big gooey areas in the veneer. i tossed them, and i tossed that nasty contact cement. well actually all that stuff is still in my basement, but you know what i mean. i laser-cut some new cheeks and headed to Woodcrafters for some more veneer. this time i got some red oak. it's not as subtle as the cherry wood i used the first time. in fact, it's downright DISCO! ok ok, so the next batch came out great. this time i just used good old wood glue and a impromptu press made up of all of the heaviest things in my house. after staining and polyurethane, it was finally looking done. i kept it for about a week or so to make sure there were no other bugs before sending it off to the buyer. all that was left to do is write up an eight page user manual...
 Goodbye Ivan. you will be missed.



YAMAHA PSS-170

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I started this project soon after finishing up the NT01 set. after feeling a bit overwhelmed by the idea of trying to compete with other novelty-synth producers that seem to be popping up all over, i thought it might be a good idea to fall back on my strengths. rather than trying to develop some new and original device that is completely "from scratch", i wanted to get back to modifying obsolete things. this is not to say that there wont be more NT models in the future, but i needed a break from brainstorming. i had a yamaha PSS-170 laying around, so i figured i would just have some fun with that. the initial plan was to keep it simple. an echo circuit, a filter, a sequencer, and so on. i figured this would be a quick little project that i could crank out in a couple of weeks, but it ended up taking about a month to finish.

upon doing some random research for circuit ideas, i decided it might be time to finally find out what PLL's do. when i started circuit bending some 10 years ago, i remember reading about Phase Locked Loops in a textbook. i think i got about two sentences in before my eyes crossed in boredom. since then i have increased my capacity for understanding electronic applications. i couldn't believe how simple it was to understand. basically, in the case of the CD4046, there is a voltage controlled oscillator that synchronize its frequency to the frequency of whatever signal is inputted to the CD4046. i guess i never understood why you would need to do that. why not just use the input frequency? well, apparently if you divide the VCO output frequency before sending it back in to the CD4046's phase-comparator, the frequency of the VCO will be increased until the divided output frequency matches that of the input frequency. so if the phase-comparator input was set to 1/2 the VCO frequency, the VCO frequency would be raised X2 to match the input frequency to the CD4046. BRILLIANT!!! i remember how exited i was when i learned to divide frequencies, and now i can multiply them!! and not just by 2, 4, 8, and so on. with the PLL you can multiply by whatever number you want. there is one drawback though, at lower frequencies the PLL takes longer to stabilize. it kind of sounds cool though because the frequency stutters a bit before it locks in to sync. hearing something fall in to sync is so vindicating.

after coming up with a decent PLL circuit, i devised a simple bidirectional sequencer that would drive an LTC1799 chip to pitch the YM2413 voice chip of the PSS170. i wanted to add an envelope generator to the keyboard that would be triggered by note-on messages, but unfortunately there was no way to obtain a decent note-on gate from the PSS170 other than to use the audio signal as a gate. and since there are so many different voices in the PSS170, there would be no way to get the envelope generator to respond to all of the voice presets. instead i just synced the envelope generator to the sequencer clock. i also threw in a divider so that the envelope generator could be triggered by 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, or 1/8 the clock frequency.

the envelope generator would be set up to modulate the cut-off frequency of the melody filter before being sent to an echo circuit. while i was experimenting with creating a note-on gate from the audio signal, i realized that the voices coming from the YM2413 sounded really crunchy when you filter them just right and sent them through a frequency divider, so i ran those sub-frequencies through a joystick mixer and mixed them back with the original voice before they get sent to the filter stage. this is when i realized something else... although there are separate outputs for the melody and rhythm voices coming from the YM2413 voice chip, there is some bleed through from the rhythm output to the melody output, even when the rhythm output is fully attenuated. i suddenly remembered this same problem i had with other yamaha PSS models, namely the PSS-30. i think it is due to the fact that the melody and rhythm sections share some similar functions when it comes to the auto-accompaniment. the accompaniment melody comes through the melody output, but the accompaniment volume switch affects both the accompaniment melody volume, and the rhythm volume regardless of the analog volume outputs of the two sections from the YM2413. and of course, the accompaniment volume has no effect on the melody output volume. with all of this in mind, i safely concluded that there was no solution to the bleed through. the only real problem it gave me was that when the rhythm volume was set all the way down, and the melody divider was engaged, the bleed through would get picked up by the melody divider and get amplified quite a bit. the divider seemed to be picking up some aliasing noise too, so to solve the problem, i used a potentiometer with a switch at one end that would disconnect the divider circuit when its volume was set to its minimum. in addition to the independent volume controls for the melody and rhythm sections, i thought it would be kind of cool to have independent echo circuits for the two too.

after about a week of reverse engineering the keyboard and coming up with an overall circuit, i came up with a design plan. the PSS170 has a lot of room inside, but i would need a lot more if i wanted to fit all of the circuits i had built. the first thing i did was replace the huge 6xC battery compartment with a much smaller 6xAA battery compartment. then i cut as much of the front panel off as i could without compromising the structural integrity of the keyboard case. the next step was to clean the hell out of what was left. this keyboard was absolutely filthy. once it was all clean, i took some measurements and started drawing up the new face-plates. after playing around with the orientation of the interface for a few days, i settled on a design, and got to work drawing up a circuit board for the whole thing. rather than using multiple small circuit boards, i decided to be lazy and just put it all on one big circuit board. the circuit board took most of a day just to cut and drill. CNC engraving a circuit board of that size can be slow going. i had to keep going back over it a little deeper each time around the corners to get all of the traces it missed the first time around.
populating the circuit board was pretty fast. the only thing that bothered me was seeing the huge number of parts that this circuit consumed. it's not that i hate ordering more parts, it's when i need parts that i don't have anymore. oh well, i can always pull parts from scrap circuit boards if i get desperate.



once the circuit board was built and ready to go i cut out some prototype face-plates on my laser cutter using cardboard from a cereal box. i have found this to be the best way to connect the hardware to the main-board without having to worry about over abusing the face-plates. then once everything is wired up and working properly, i just swap the disposable face-plate for the real thing. i had originally planned to paint the three face-plates all different colors, kind of going for a crazy candy color scheme, but i kind of liked the way the cereal box cardboard looked with the bright orange buttons. i had a can of krylon that was basically the same color, but i've had a lot of trouble in the past using solvent based paints with acrylic face-plates. i read somewhere that if you reheat the acrylic and let it cool, it will reduce the risk of cracking the acrylic when the paint dries. once the panels were engraved, cut, and i had colored the graphics, i hit the the panels with a MAPP torch for a few seconds on each side until the acrylic started to bow out. i kept heating them up until they wouldn't warp any more, and then i let them cool. once they cool, they return to their original size, and all of the stress in the plastic is relieved. then they are ready to paint. there was a little blistering from the torch, but it is barely noticeable.

i would have to say the most rewarding part of a project that takes so much planning, is when it's time to assemble everything, and it all comes together smoothly. however, being the most satisfying phase of the project can in turn create a perfectly devastating situation. that's usually what happens, and this time was no exception. once all of the new keyboard was assembled and working, and i was putting in the very last screw that would finish the piece using a very powerful screw-gun, i went too deep and cracked a face-plate... i cut out a replacement, painted it, and was able to swap it in by the end of the day. lesson learned.

once the keyboard was closed up i notice a couple of things that i wasn't entirely satisfied with. for one, the envelope generator was biased too low, so it would make this irritating popping noise every time it swept down. not only that but the envelope generator didn't sweep deep enough because the envelope was buffered by an op-amp, so it couldn't reach more than 4 volts. i opened it back up and swapped out the envelope buffer with a couple of transistors to fix both issues. i seem to remember having the same problem with IVAN. why didn't i think of it when i was designing the circuit? oh well, fixed now. while i had the keyboard open, i threw in a little input jack to the CD4046. now the sequencer can accept incoming clock signals and/or the rhythm tempo. i thought about adding a tempo sync output too, but i'll leave it out for now.


RED CLOUD KEYBOARD

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This project started shortly after completing the NT02 series. i wanted to get back to experimenting with the CD4046 PLL chip, and i thought it would be kind of cool to use a toy enclosure as the body for the new synth. i shuffled around in my basement for a while until i found the perfect toy. it was an old radioshack animal sound keyboard. originally i had planned to use the internal circuitry of the toy, but soon realized that the sound quality would not be suitable. instead, i grabbed a little toy keyboard i had laying around, and began prototyping around that circuit. the keyboard was nice because the keys were all different colors, and they were small enough to mount in the toy organ body. i thought it was a perfect match since the keys kind of resembled a rainbow and the organ body kind of resembled a cloud. 


Once i had a rough idea of how i wanted the keyboard to look with the toy organ body, i began prototyping the circuit and coming up with a general idea of what the final product would do. i knew that i wanted to use a PLL chip to multiply the voice frequency, and then send that frequency to a pseudo-noise generator made from a 74ls273 shift register and CD4030 XOR chip. i was pleasantly surprised with some positive results, but unfortunately there were problems with the toy keyboard chip i was using. the toy keyboard was a very cheap generic toy keyboard. it put out a square wave voice for a clock-determined gate interval, so changing the pitch of the keyboard would effectively change the gate time of the voice. then an envelope capacitor would shape the output of the square-wave. the problem came with the gate time, since not only did the gate time dictate the length of the note, it also put the chip in standby mode each time the note was allowed to end. then when another key was pressed, the chip would have to power back on, and the voice would spike. the sound was especially noticeable since the signal was being sent to the PLL frequency multiplier, so i decided to scrap that keyboard chip, and go with one that was more compatible. i had an old purple DSI keyboard that had just the chip for the job. the chip had a square wave output that would stay on as long as a key was pressed in"organ" mode, or hold the last note continuously in "piano" mode, granted the envelope circuitry is removed from the circuit. the keyboard also puts out a gate signal for the length of the held note in both modes. the chip also had a record and playback mode, but i decided to leave those out since i knew there would be space limitations on the control panel. the only drawback to the chip was that there is a battery alarm sound that chimes after a minute or so of inactivity. unfortunately the battery alarm timer will only reset when a key is re-triggered, so re-triggering redundant functions like "play" mode and "piano" mode with an LFO was not an option. 
moving on, i came up with a general idea for the architecture of the signal path. the main voice coming from the keyboard would be split in two directions. one voice would be put through a frequency divider. the four sub-frequencies would then be mixed together with a joystick before being sent to a VCA. the other direction of the signal would be sent to the PLL frequency multiplier, then sent to the clock input of the pseudo-noise generator circuit. that signal would then be sent to another VCA that would be mixed to the other one. the two signals would then be sent to a PT2399 echo circuit. after the echo circuit, the signal would be sent to a resonant 12db LP filter, and finally the power amplifier stage. i then added two individual ramp LFOs to be able to modulate the VCAs and VCF. LFO "A" has "RISE" and "FALL" inputs to control the shape and speed of the LFO. LFO "B" has a rate knob and a three way toggle switch to set the shape to saw, ramp, or reverse-saw. the filter's cutoff can be modulated by LFO "A", but the LFO input is inverted from that going to the VCAs, so their peaks will be out of phase 180 degrees. this makes for a more versatile effect, i think. once everything was built and working on the breadboard, i designed, cut, and populated the circuit board for all of the new circuitry. i also started playing with ideas for the faceplate, cutting prototypes out of old cereal box cardboard. 


It was about this point in the project when i had received an inquiry into buying and modding my last NT02 and my long-for sale NOISE synth. see THIS UPDATE. that took my attention away from the keyboard for a week or so, and then i got really sick... i haven't been sick for a long long time, and this time i was laid out for a good ten days. my cold finally passed though, and by the time it had, i realized that all i really had left to do was wire up the hardware, cut a faceplate, debug, and assemble the keyboard once and for all. debugging took a few days, and the faceplate gave me a few problems, but eventually this little creature came to life. this little guy really turned out great!



 Re-wiring the key pads was tricky, but i've done this all before.

 Some guts-shots after all of the hardware was wired up.

 Shiny!

 Blue LEDs under red lenses.

 Speaker in the back. remarkably loud, considering...

 Portamento knob on the side by the line out.

My schematic. WARNING: there may be errors.

Watch this

RAVE BOX

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This project was supposed to be a quick quick one, but it ended up taking nearly the entire month of October to complete. it was't terribly difficult to build, but this month has been so full of distraction. initially all i had intended on doing was modding up a toy keyboard with some simple mods that could be built quickly, and would yield some interesting sounds. i started with a Rhapsody programmable electronic organ. i forgot to take a picture of mine before i totally dismantled it, but i did find a pretty good picture of it on google images.
The keyboard comes equipped with a built-in sequence recorder and rhythm generator, so i thought it would make a great base for a novelty synthesizer. the rhythm generator was actually just two separate pulse generators that were filtered slightly before being sent to the amplifier. my first thought was to add a step sequencer that could be counted up by one pulse-generator, then counted down by the other. it seemed to work, but for whatever reason, i decided not to include the pulse generators or the internal sequence recorder in the end. i think the reason was that the pulse generators made a popping sound whether they were connected or not. i only wanted to use them as a clock source, and not hear them at all. they could also be heard when the recorded sequence was playing back, so i just got rid of both features and moved on. 

Keyboard case cutting before and after.

I came up with a rough idea of what i wanted the keyboard to do, and breadboarded the circuit. the keyboard pitch would be sent through a bi-directional 8-step sequencer. the sequencer would also control the pitch of a little drum voice chip i found in the basement. it was an HT82105 from an old drum toy from the 80s. the chip has four drum sounds that would be triggered by the sequencer clock. since the pitch of the drums would be sequence by the same hardware that pitches the keyboard, i thought it would be a good idea to have the two voices be pitched in opposite directions. so basically, pitching the keyboard voice up will effectively pitch the drum voice down. the drum chip is kind of unique in the fact that when the voice is triggered, the drum sound will repeat as long as the gate is high. at higher pitches, the voice is able to repeat more than at lower pitches. to get a little more versatility from this effect, i added a duty-cycle control to the sequencer clock to be able to adjust the gate time to the drum voice. 
The melody voice would be sent to two CD4046 PLL circuits. one would output 1/2 and 1/4 the frequency of the keyboard voice, and the other would output X2, X4, X8, and X16 the frequency of the keyboard voice. each PLL circuit would have individual filter controls, to modulate the tracking speed of the circuit. one of the great things you can do with PLL chips is drastically reduce the tracking speed and efficiency by replacing the filter resistors and capacitors with ones that are not nominal. the result is squirly, phasey, rough and beating tones reminiscent of circuit bent sounds, but much more stable and not overdriven. the voices have a mind of their own, and that is what i want!
Anyway, then the two PLL voices would be mixed together with the original keyboard voice via switches, then sent to a 12db lowpass filter before being sent to the power amplifier. the filter would be slightly resonant, and the cut-off frequency could be controlled either manually, or with an envelope generated by the sequencer clock. there is not really any decent way to shape the modulating envelope to the filter without effecting the sequencer speed and the drum trigger gate time, but because there is a duty cycle control, the envelope can be changed. everything being connected in some way is kind of a recurring them in this synth.


Schematics and PCB layout.

Once all of my ideas were on a breadboard and working, i drew up some circuit boards and faceplates. surprisingly the circuit boards came out with no problems at all. i think i'm getting good at this. the one thing i forgot to include in the faceplate design though, was the Key Hold switches. unfortunately there was no way to hold notes on this keyboard without making a physical connection to the note switches. i wanted to be able to hold any of the 25 notes, so i would have to use multi-position switches. the keyboard chip has 8 data lines, and 4 common busses, but the 4th is only responsible for one note and all of the other unused functions, so i left that one out, so the high F can't be held. also, because the PLL circuits need a gate signal to disable their VCO's while a note is not playing, i used the gate signal coming from the 4th common buss. unfortunately though, the PLLs cannot be gated when the high F is played, only the original keyboard voice will sound. 
Anyway, to hold the 24 notes, i used a combination of a single pole four position switch with a single pole eight position switch. the 8-position switch will select the note address, and the 4-position switch will select the one of three common busses, or off. unfortunately the 8-position switch i used is a "make before break" type, which means that the note cannot be changed with the 8-positions switch alone, the 4-positions switch will need to be turned to activate a changed note. sadly, i didn't realize this until it was already built. good to know for next time though. 

Sequencer board on the right.

Fitting everything in the keyboard enclosure was kind of a challenge. there was not really a lot of room to work with, and it all got filled. the finished keyboard is actually pretty heavy for its size. i had thought about painting the keyboard enclosure a different color just because of how old and sun-stained the white plastic had become, but then i started to like the stains, and started to think that painting the whole thing might just make it look too "arts-and-crafty". it's not like it wouldn't be obvious that i painted it. also, it's been super wet here in Portland lately, and that has caused me more than a few paint-job heartaches in the past. best to let it be itself as much as possible. i am glad i did, because i don't think i could be happier with the way it turned out. 

 Tight fit.





VIDEO

DRUM SYNTH

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This project began in early December of 2014. it was originally a commission, but the deal ended up falling through, and i never got paid for it. hopefully i can find someone out there to buy it from me to make up for my losses.


The original concept was based around the Synare3 circuit. the Synare3 consisted of two CMOS oscillators, a white noise generator, a four-pole resonant lowpass filter, a voltage controlled amplifier, and two envelope generators that modulated the filter cutoff and VCA amplitude.


My task was to build a modern variation on the circuit that would enable CV/EXP. PEDAL inputs to the oscillators, filter, and VCA. this would mean replacing the CMOS oscillators with voltage controlled oscillators. i was also asked to add the ability to 'transpose' the oscillators frequency range, create multiple waveforms, add a 'crossfade' between one oscillator and the noise generator, add a line-in mix, and a pushbutton switch that would fully trigger the envelope generators.



with all of this on the list, i began designing a circuit that would achieve it all. in the end, the circuit was quite a bit different than the original Synare3 schematics i was able to find. for the VCOs, i used a basic dual op-amp design that produces both square and triangle waveforms, and has a pretty decent frequency range. transposing the VCOs would just be a matter of switching in additional timing capacitors. 


the white noise generator in the original schematic was not giving me very good results, so i ended up using the two transistor type that i have used in the past with the NT02 series. it works well, but the circuit requires at least 10vdc. since the buyer asked that the finished product be powered by a standard 'center-positive' 9vdc supply, i would also have to build a 'charge-pump' circuit to create the necessary voltage for the noise generator circuit. like the NT02 rev.b, i used a mirrored signal from 'oscillator 2' to drive the charge-pump voltage multiplier.



the filter in the Synare3 originally consisted of four separate 'OTA' 6db lowpass filters in series to create the four-pole filter. the circuit originally used the CA3080. in the interest of space and cost, i decided to use the dual package LM13700 instead. i felt that the fourth filter in the chain was not really necessary in this circuit, so i cut the filter down to three poles, and used the fourth OTA for the VCA. i was able to cut down my OTA needs from five single amplifier chips to two dual chips. also, i didn't really see the need for two separate envelope generators, and the buyer only wanted one decay control knob, so i only built one to control both the VCA and VCF. in the end, the only thing that stayed original to the Synare3 was the drum-sensor/envelope-generator circuit. the seller also insisted that the sensor be a 3 inch loudspeaker like the original Synare3. the speaker did have a more natural response(maybe), but when the deal fell through, i ended up switching it out for a piezo instead. the speaker was just not sensitive enough for finger tapping. i also ended up adding a lot of different modulation routing to the LFO, VCO, VCF, VCA, etc. the finished product does well as a drum synth, but excelles as a drone synth. plugging other signals in to the trigger input is especially fun. it can take LINE, MIC, INST, and other sensor inputs safely.



the buyer had also asked that the VCOs, VCF, and VCA have standard 0~5vdc CV inputs that doubled as expression pedal inputs. this was new territory for me. i didn't understand how you could send 5 volts to a jack in a TRS situation, and then just short that 5 volts to ground when you plug in a TS jack, but the buyer knew what he wanted, and it is common for newer moog and roland gear to have this option. after a couple of days trying to come up with some sort of current sensing switch that would disconnect the 5 volt supply when shorted, i ended up just asking to borrow someones moog pedal to see what they do to overcome this. ironically, the instructions on the bottom of the moog sent me to their website, where the manual with the description of the circuit is. all it really ended up consisting of was a dedicated 5 volt supply that was limited to 5ma per output. if one of the four was shorted to ground, the rest would not be able to power an expression pedal. if all four are connected to TS CV inputs, the circuit will draw no more that 20ma. since this thing isn't running off of batteries, it's not a big deal. so i was able to do it the way moog does. i just added a 7805 regulator with four separate 1k resistors coming off of it to the four CV/EXPR inputs.



the LINE-IN MIX jack was pretty basic. the buyer really just wanted to have the option of mixing another LINE-IN without the need of an external mixer. the LINE-IN has a little bit of gain too, so the signal can be summed from the external device's volume control.
 

the body of the synth is made from laser-cut wood, and the faceplates are laser-etched hand-cut sheet metal. working with sheet metal can be a pretty stressful when you don't have the right tools. my second try turned out much better than the first. i wasted a lot of hours, but it was a good learning experience.




 MANUAL



FISHER PRICE AXE

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This little project came to me while i was cleaning out the basement. Heidi and i are moving soon, and i have been trying to liquidate as much as i can before we go. we have lived in this apartment for 10 years now, so our basement was full of years of postponed projects and toys that i have collected. i have actually done pretty well at cutting my collection down to bare necessities. i did however end up filling one box with things that i thought i should maybe sleep on before deciding to get rid of them. in the box was a fisher price guitar from the late 80's. it had been so long ago that i had added it to my collection, that i wasn't even sure if i could remember what it sounded like. i do remember having the keyboard version that was sold around the same time. i remember that keyboard having particularly terrible sound. for whatever reason, i ended up scrapping the keyboard, but kept the mainboard over all those years. i'm not sure why, but now i'm glad i did. when it was finally time to make a decision on whether or not to keep the guitar though, it occurred to me to maybe plug it in and have a listen first. i did, and the sound was terrible! so terrible in fact that i decided to open it up and see why. well, one thing led to another, and i decided that i probably had enough time before we move for one last project. 

Upon opening the guitar, i quickly found that the primary reason the sound quality was so bad was because of the way the voice was generated. the guitar's voice chip sent 8 digital parallel outputs to a shift-register/ resistor array, in some sort of external DAC(digital-to-analog converter) configuration. the digital outputs were also being sent to the keyer/programmer chip before being sent to the shift registers to be mixed. kind of seemed weird to me, but i guess it kind of made enough sense to move on. i tried to find some kind of envelope control for the guitar voice, but it seems that that was being generated digitally too. so that's why it sounds so terrible! well, there would be no 'cleaning-up' the sound here. instead i focused on that DAC business. mixing in the raw digital signals to the audio path made for some great distortion. i also thought it might be cool to send the digital signal through a PWM(pulse-width-modulator) circuit, as kind of a highpass filter. the PWM sounded great, but none of the combinations of the digital outputs and the analog output sounded very good together, so instead of making a mixer section for the 9 different output options, i just picked out the 6 most harmonic sounding digital signals and put them on a six-position selector switch. each of the six 'timbres' have unique harmonics. especially through the PWM circuit. on one end of the spectrum, the voice is loud and has rich harmonics that carry. on the other end of the spectrum the voice is total 'dial-up' noise. then there are four varying levels in between. 


The guitar originally had three strummer paddle switches. to play the guitar, you would hold a note or chord on the fretboard, and strum the paddle switches like strings. when playing a single note, the three paddles all strum that same note. when playing a chord, the paddle switches play one note in the chord individually. i wanted to replace the strummer paddles with an LFO(low-frequency-oscillator), but i also wanted to maintain the chord strumming option, so i built a 3-step looper with a CD4017 chip to cycle through the notes sequentially. i added individual switches to the outputs of the CD4017, so that any or all triggers from the looper to the strummers could be turned on or off in any combination. i also added a big arcade switch to act as a manual trigger for the first string, or the root note of the chord. i may end up going back in and changing the manual trigger to the second string though. i later found out that string two is responsible for advancing the melody recorder in playback mode. more on that later.



at this point the guitar was sounding really good...in a noise-loving kind of way. the sound still needed something though. i didn't want to go too crazy on this project since there wasn't much time, so i decided to add a PT2399 echo circuit to the mix. it did a great job at taming those harsh digital timbres. after being totally satisfied with the sounds i was getting from the circuits i had built, for some reason i really wanted to hear those digital noises through a lowpass filter. i ended up stripping out three buffer/filter stages from the original signal path, since i wouldn't be needing them, but there was one of the four op-amps of an LM324 that was still needed for the weird power switch circuit in the guitar. this meant that i had 3 left over op-amps to use, so i went with a simple 2-pole vactrol based lowpass filter. this is where things got stupid... while i was reverse engineering the mainboard of the guitar, i was constantly flipping the PCB(printed circuit board) around to see the tracings on the bottom, and the components on the top to draw out the circuit to better understand it. i did a great job of drawing everything out, but for some reason i reversed the power pins to the LM324 in my drawing... you would think that after all of these years of using LM324's, i would know by now which pin is positive, and which one is negative. thanks dyslexia! anyway, i built up the filter exactly how i had drawn it into my guitar schematic. it wouldn't work??? no, why would it? i tried a million things to try and figure out why every time i turned the power on to the filter, my voltage would drop. i tried different filters, different power supplies, different voltages... at one point i thought that the regulator to the guitar circuit just wasn't capable of sending any extra current to the filter, so i decided to give the filter 12 volts to see what it would do. as i was pulling a jumper carrying 12 volts over to my breadboard, the  jumper sprung out of my hand and landed directly on one of the pins to the guitar's voice chip. from then on it didn't make a sound. all of the other pins were still fine. they all did what they were supposed to, but this pin gave me nothing. it was the pin that sent the 'enable' signal to the DAC's shift register, so no sound would come out without it. DAMN! this is when i remembered that i had kept the mainboard to the keyboard version. i dug around and found it, and thankfully the voice chip was a match. i de-soldered the old one and soldered in the new one and it worked again. it was then that it occurred to me to check the polarity of the op-amp. it was backwards. i swapped the polarity and the filter worked perfectly.

Once the circuit was finally working, i quickly drew up some faceplates for the guitar, and started tooling the enclosure to make room for all the new hardware. after that, the enclosure would need a substantial cleaning. with the exception of some coloring-crayon stains here and there, it came out pretty clean. i then drew up a little circuit board design for all of the additional circuitry, and engraved it with my CNC. i did have a little bit of trouble with the PCB though. i forgot a few components in my 'bill of materials'. when i used all of the components that i had listed, i just assumed it was done... oops, forgot a couple. eventually it all worked out great, and assembly was pretty smooth. after everything was built, and the guitar was all closed up, i started playing with it. not only did everything work exactly how it should, but i also realised that this guitar has a pretty BAD-ASS SEQUENCER! i knew that it had a record and playback function, but i didn't end up trying it out until everything was said and done. the guitar has a 'record' button that puts the guitar in record mode. in record mode, the fretboard is used to record up to 39 notes without the need for the strummer switch. in playback mode, the second string plays the sequence one step at a time on each strum. since i wired up the strummers to an LFO, the rate of the sequence can be played back independent of the guitar's internal clock(pitch). at the end of the recorded sequence, it restarts at the first step and plays through continuously, and there is no noticeable gap between the first and last step! very cool. i am very glad i didn't just give this little guitar back to goodwill. 

This time around, i didn't film a video.. i tried, but i wasn't able to get good footage and play cool stuff at the same time. my camera skills are just too horrible. instead, i just recorded some audio and put it to a slideshow. please let me know if this bothers anyone. just makes more sense to me.

NOYSTOISE for MENG QI

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Well! it has been a long time since my last post. it has been a pretty busy past few months. Heidi an d i bought an old fixer house in southeast Portland in late February, and there has been little time for new projects that are not related to fixing up an old-dump house. but inevitably we got in and set up, and i have been spending most of the last month and a half building a custom synth for none other than Meng Qi! he contacted me shortly after my last post, and asked to have a custom synth made. he was willing to wait until i was moved and set up in my new shop too. how could i resist?

After some back and forth, we came up with a general formula for the synth-to-be. it would be comprised of two sequencers with capacitive-touch sensors, two voices with analog filters, frequency modulation, reverb, a few modular inputs and outputs, and a Meng Qi logo. knowing that this would likely turn in to a pretty large and time consuming project, i quickly got to work designing synth. the project did end up taking almost two months to design and build, but actually, it could have taken much longer and i am actually kind of impressed with how quickly this one came together, considering the complexity of the build.

(before jacks were added)
The first thing i drew up was an overall signal path schematic to work from. from there i prototyped each part of the synth in small sections. and by small, i mean four breadboards stuffed with circuits. prototyping is always a little difficult on this scale, because it is not really possible for me to build the entire synth with all of its hardware on breadboards. i suppose i could try, but i have found that a circuit on a breadboard will likely always need some amount of debugging once converted to a circuit board. my resolve is to design everything into working sections, connect them to their respective hardware, connect them to each other, then cross my fingers and turn the power on. crossing my fingers has never helped though. certainly not in this instance. however, when all of the shorts and reversed connections were solved, the sections of this synth all played pretty well together. i didn't have to swap out too many components, which was nice for a change. 
One thing that did kind of give me trouble though, were the capacitive sensor switches. i bought several of these capacitive modules on ebay from china. the TTP224 was something that i had always wanted to play around with, and this was the perfect chance. the modules are very cheap, and have lots of modes to choose from. i tested the modules when i got them just to see how they worked, but i actually didn't test them with the circuit until everything was wired up, so i really had no idea if they would work, and my whole interface was kind of designed around them, so i crossed my fingers extra hard this time. thankfully they worked just fine, but i did have to change the design a bit once i was able to actually see how the sensors would play with the rest of the device. initially, i had thought it would be cool to have the ability to change the input mode of the sensors from SINGLE to TOGGLE, but in order to do that, the power to each module has to be turned off before the mode can be changed. that reset period has to be held for a good second too, to get the module to fully power down, so the mode switch was a three position switch where the center position was reset. the whole idea was kind of goofy though, and when i was able to use the sensors with the rest of the circuit, i found that the TOGGLE mode was probably redundant, as well as confusing, because all or any of the sensors can be toggled individually, and since the inputs were being sent out to a priority encoder, it just seemed over complicated just to hold a specific step. the setting also conflicted with one of the envelope generators' mode, so i decided to get rid of the TOGGLE mode, and its goofy switch, and add some other cool stuff like an extra envelope generator mode, and glide for the two voices.  
The design of the enclosure is an original design i made in sketch up. i thought it would be cool to try and incorporate some bent panels, just to give it an edge over traditional acrylic face plates. the rounded edges add a lot more character, i think. i had originally planned to paint the face plates a light beige color, but i really wanted to do a blond birch finish on the end cheeks, and i thought the beige and blond would be too conflicting, so we went with blue on a sky-blue tolex. the box assembly went together pretty quick with no problems. i have had my laser cutter for just about three years now, and i am still able to cut plywood and acrylic with little effort. that is unprecedented for a laser tube that is only supposed to last one year! i can definitely recommend buying one from
 
 
Once the enclosure was built, i quickly got to work designing the faceplate layout. once the orientation was generally acceptable, i cut some proto-face plates to mount the hardware in, and attach the circuitry. i usually use cardboard from cereal boxes for this stage, because they are disposable and flexible if i need them to be, but this time i used clear acrylic. the rigid plastic did make it a little more difficult to get at parts of the circuit than when using cardboard, but the clear plastic let in a lot more light, which was really helpful when trying to solder deep inside the box.
 
The circuit boards were mostly pretty easy to design, and i didn't make that many mistakes this time around. i ended up with four large boards for the voices, sequencers, and filters, and one small board for the power supply and loudspeaker amplifier. the sequencer boards were pretty easy to design , just because there were far fewer components involved, but they ended up having more flaws than the other circuits. i spent a significantly longer amount of time designing the voicing circuits, paying extra attention to not make any mistakes that would potentially be hard to find. they ended up working without too much trouble. actually, the biggest trouble maker throughout the whole project was probably with the hardware. i buy nearly all of my parts from China because the low prices are what really make it possible for me to do these projects for so cheap. the downside to that is sometimes you get some dud-parts. i never had this issue as much as i had with this project, so when something wasn't working, it was always the last thing i checked. i found three or four different dud-potentiometers total in this project. you get what you pay for i guess.
Once all of the circuit were mounted in place, and wired up to the hardware, i had to spend quite a few days tracking down all of the mistakes and fixing them one at a time. it is always pretty discouraging when you turn the power on and nothing happens. but you just start going through the circuit, bit by bit, until everything is exactly how it is supposed to be. when the whole thing was finally working, the next step was the delicate task of removing all of the wired up hardware from the proto-face plates, and carefully mounting them to the blue finished face plates. this is always kind of tricky because it is very easy to damage or scratch the paint on the reverse side of the face plate. i use water-based acrylic paint to coat the face plates, because enamels will cause the plastic to form stress fractures. the acrylic paint works great as long as it is not disturbed. for additional protection, i also laser cut dust-guard fabric to place between the faceplate and the hardware. it protects the paint very well, but getting all of the hardware through the dust-guard, and then through the face plates without scratching anything or breaking any wires is kind of a balancing act. it all worked out in the end, but the final week of this project was pretty damn stressful. 
The signal path of this synth is pretty straight forward, but extremely fun to play. basically the circuit starts out with two square wave voltage-controlled oscillators. the oscillators have a pretty wide range, from high to low. I probably should have measured.. the oscillators' pitch is controlled by its own respective 8-step sequencer. each step can be manually tuned with a pretty decent amount of stability, considering the range. the sequencers are driven by a single clock signal, or they can be triggered individually by an external gate input via the respective input jack. each clock input signal, whether internal or external, is sent through a frequency multiplier, and then a divider, before being sent to the sequencer clock input. the multiplier has four settings; X1, X3, X4, and X5. the frequency multiplication is achieved through the use of a CD4046 phase-locked-loop circuit. at lower frequencies, the PLL takes longer to latch on to the multiple, but eventually it ramps up or down until it is in sync. it is actually kind of a neat affect because the sequencer will sound kind of glitch for a while, and then gradually falls into sync, and then totally syncs up. this made it tricky for the external input though, because the PLL is looking for regular intervals, so if you were manually triggering the sequencer or you had a pattern sequencer running to the input, the multiple would be all kinds of crazy.. to remedy this, I simply set up the X1 mode to bypass the PLL to the sequencer, so it is still possible to get the crazy multiples when using the external input, but it can also be controllable in the X1 position. after the multiplier stage, the clock signal is then sent to the divider stage which also has four settings; 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8. the multiplier and divider section can create some pretty interesting time signatures, and each sequencer has their own! the two clock signals also have individual outputs too, so it is possible to sync to the multiplied and divided clock, whether internal or external. the sequencer can run in either direction, and the step function can be turned on or off. each sequencer also has eight capacitive touch sensor inputs. whether the step function to a sequencer is on or off, the capacitive touch sensors will interrupt the sequence and hold the corresponding step in the sequence until the sensor is no longer being held, or until a higher priority sensor is touched. the sensors are prioritized from 1 to 8. when the step function to the sequencer is disengaged, and there is no activity on the sensor buttons, the sequence will hold step-8. step-1 is the highest priority step in the sequence, so holding it will overcome all other sensors. if you were to hold step-5, and let go of step-1, the sequence would return to step-5, and so too, if you let go of step-5, the sequence would return to step-8, or whatever lower priority step was held. sequencer A's output goes directly to VCO-A, and also has an output jack, so it can control other CV inputs, locally or externally. sequencer B's output can be sent to six different parameters of the synth; VCO-B, internal clock VCO, VCA-B, VCF-B, VCA-A, or VCF-A. if sequencer B is set to anything other than VCO-B, sequencer A is sent to VCO-B, and the two VCO's are loosely synced. each VCO has its own TUNE/GLIDE switch and knob. the switch sets the function of the knob to either TUNE or GLIDE. in TUNE  mode, the knob will detune the respective oscillator by about an octave, give or take. in Glide mode, the knob controls how fast or slow the oscillator transitions from step to step in the sequence. the range is pretty substantial. I am really glad I included this. the two voice VCO's are sent through their own signal chain. first, they are split in to two identical voices, 1 and 2. each voice is then sent through a frequency divider with four modes; 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8. each divided frequency is then sent to a pulse width modulation circuit. each of the four PWM circuits can be controlled manually, or control can be bypassed externally with the corresponding CV input jack. the manual control knob acts as a threshold control to the parameter when it is being controlled externally. each of the four voices are then sent to their own respective volume control knob. voices A1, and B1 are also sent to their own XOR ring modulator circuit. the XOR is not like your traditional ring modulator, but it really works well. an XOR gate is one that has two inputs and one output. if the inputs of the XOR are the same, the output will be low. if the inputs are opposite each other, the output will be high. put audio frequencies on the inputs, and you have FM! A-1 and B-1 are sent to one input of the respective XOR gate, and the corresponding second input is set by a three position switch. A-1 can be modulated by A-2, B-1, or B-2, and B-1, can be modulated by B-2, A-1 or A-2. each XOR voice has its own volume control that mixes the signal with the VCO's other two voices before being sent to its respective filter and amplifier circuit. both voice A and B have their own voltage controlled filter and voltage controlled amplifier. the VCF is a 24db/oct. band pass filter with resonance control. the cutoff frequency of the filter can be controlled manually, or eternally using the corresponding VCF bypass input jack. the manual control knob acts as a threshold for the external input while in use. the VCA can be controlled in the same way, with its respective VCA input bypass jack. after each voice has been sent through its respective VCF and VCA, the signals are combined and sent to the effects processor. the effects processor is based around the COOLAUDIO V1000 chip. it is a 24bit effects processor with 16 built in programs. it includes reverbs, delays, flanger, and more.. the real fun starts with the bit-rate knob though. rather than using a fixed frequency crystal to clock the V1000, I used a voltage controlled oscillator. this effectively pitches the processor up or down, and it sounds really cool, especially when sequenced, which can be achieved with the external bypass CV input jack. the manual control knob acts as a threshold control when the bit-rate is being controlled externally. the effects section also has a WET/DRY control knob to control how much of the original signal and the effect signal is fed to the output. from there, the signal is sent to the master volume knob, where it is connected directly to the line out jack. if there is nothing plugged in to the line out jack, the signal is sent to the built in power amp and speaker.
hmm, what else? oh yeah, the envelope generators! each voice(A and B) have their own envelope generator too. the envelope generators have three modes each; SINGLE, GATED, or CLOCK1(2). in SINGLE mode, the envelope will only trigger when a capacitive sensor is first touched, and will not retrigger until all of the voice's capacitive sensors have been released, and one is touched again. in GATED mode, the envelope will only trigger when a capacitive sensor is held, but it will continuously be retriggered by the respective clock input as long as a sensor is held, regardless of whether the corresponding sequencers' step mode is on or off. in CLOCK1(2) mode, the envelope generator will retrigger continuously to its respective clock input, regardless of the sequencer mode. each envelope generator's input clock can also be bypassed with an external gate source with the corresponding external bypass input jack. the envelope generators have manual controls for ATTACK(rise time), DECAY(fall time), and DEPTH. each envelope can be sent to one of four of its respective parameters; VCA, VCF, PWM-1, and PWM-2. the envelope generators also have their own secondary output jacks to connect to other CV inputs, both externally or locally. however, the envelope outputs can not be controlled be their corresponding DEPTH knob. the out put is always set to full. all of the 12 input and output jacks on the rear panel were actually not in the original plan. I added them last minute because I felt it would be criminal to leave them out :)
well I guess that about covers it. needless to say there was really no doing this thing justice as far as a video clip was concerned. with the additional input/output jacks, the sonic possibilities of this machine are vast. I made a video anyway. I shot it before the additional jacks though.
I am really going to miss this one. I keep looking over my shoulder, thinking it's going to be there, but it is off to its new owner now. good luck, my little blue friend!! 


(before additional jacks)


YAMAHA HS200

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This project was a commission for an overseas musician who i have been in touch with for a while. we had talked back and forth for a year or two about having something made, but had trouble coordinating our availability. we were finally able to get a project rolling after all that time though, and ironically enough, the guy happened to be in my neck of the world when the keyboard was finished, so he came and picked it up in person! it is very rare that i get to meet my customers personally. especially since most of them are overseas. it was very encouraging.





The synth is based off of a Yamaha HS200 that the musician had owned since he was a kid. the keyboard is a regular piece of his performance rig, so the finished product needed to stay compact. i had never had the chance to play an HS200 before it was shipped to me. the keyboard is actually pretty powerful for its size. it has 5 timbres, 4-note polyphony, and sustain. the keyboard had some issues, as most toys of this age usually do, but after a good tare-down and cleaning, the keyboard had a lot of potential. one interesting thing about this keyboard was the auto-power-off function. it was actually a separate dedicated IC made by Yamaha. never seen that before. needless to say, i took it out of the circuit.





The customer and i went back and forth on the signal path for a while. it was pretty easy to come up with because he knew exactly what he wanted, and after a little learning on my part, i was able to give him all those things. one particular aspect of this project that required some learning was adding a decent PT2399 delay to this circuit. the PT2399 IC is a fun little chip to use, but the fidelity can be trouble sometimes. in this case, the customer wanted to have separate HP and LP filters for the echo signal. in order to add filters with any amount of flexibility to the delay, i would have to "widen" the range of the PT2399's input and output filters, which would introduce a lot of noise to the chip. i had also found that the HS200 signal was substantially hotter when more than one note was held, so i thought i would try my hand at companders. i had read about companders before, but never really understood what i could use them for until i saw a schematic for the "PT80" delay. i ordered some up thinking that it would solve all of my noise problems, but after a week or two of bread-boarding different configurations, it seemed that the companders were just adding to the problem. in the end i was able to reduce the noise as much without the companders as i was able to with them. it was a great learning experience though...






The signal path is pretty straight forward. the HS200 voice signal is sent to a 12db lowpass filter. the filter has resonance control, and the cutoff can be modulated manually, by the envelope generator, or the LFO. there is also a CV input for the filter cutoff. there is a line in jack to the filter, as well as a "dry" line out for the HS200 signal that takes the HS200 out of the filter mix when used. the filtered signal is then sent to the PT2399 circuit via "send" level knob or through the "100%" switch. the 100% switch is a three-way rocker switch. in the center position it is off. in both outer directions it is on, but one direction is momentary, and the other latches. the PT2399 delay time can be modulated manually, by the envelope generator, or by the LFO. there is also a CV input for delay time. the delayed signal is then sent to  6db highpass, and 6db lowpass filters. the filters can be independently modulated manually, by envelope, or by LFO. once the echo signal is filtered, it can be sent back to the delay input via the regen(eration) knob. the "wet" signal is mixed with the "dry" signal from the 12db filter via their respective level knobs before being sent to the master volume knob, and finally the power amp that drives the internal speaker and the line out. 




the envelope generator is your basic attack-release generator with a depth control knob. the EG is triggered by keyboard data messages that i buffered into a single key-on gate. the high F key does not trigger the EG though. this is because the data pin for the high F is shared by the timbre select switch, so it sends continuous data messages to the gate circuit. i ran in to the same problem with some other keyboards i have modded in the past. small price to pay for the key-on EG gate ability though. the gate can also be sent out to other devices with the gate out jack. there is also a gate input jack so the EG can be gated externally. the EG also has a CV output jack that can be used to modulate external devices or to modulate other local parameters externally as well as internally. this gives the keyboard a lot more flexibility since the internal signal can only be set to one parameter at a time. the EG has a 6-position slide switch to send the EG signal to either the keyboard pitch, 12db filter cutoff, echo rate, LFO rate, echo HP filter, or echo LP filter. the depth control knob of the envelope generator only controls the internal level of the EG. the EG CV out is always at full. 




The LFO is pretty cool. it is the same dual op-amp triangle wave VCO i use a lot, however, this time i added a triangle-to-sine wave-shaper after. the wave-shaper can actually be swept from triangle, to sine, to square-wave gradually. this is a great circuit to have in the toolbox. more fun to play with than a three position switch. might have been cool to add a CV input to control the wave-shape. maybe next time. the frequncy of the LFO can be controlled manually, by the EG, or by the external CV input to the LFO. the LFO has a depth control knob that controls the level to the internal parameter it is set to. the LFO has a CV output, but like the EG CV output, the signal is output at full, and can not be controlled with the depth knob.  the LFO has a 5-position slide switch that can be set to modulate either the HS200 pitch, 12db filter cutoff, echo rate, echo HP filter, or echo LP filter.




The HS200 itself has a pitch control circuit that can be modulated manually, by the LFO, by the EG, or by the CV input jack. the range is pretty limited but enough to get some great warping sounds. the keyboard also has a 5-position switch to select the timbre, as well as a single on/off switch that engages the sustain mode. 



The enclosure of this keyboard was pretty straight forward to design and build, but fitting everything into it was a real feat. all of the hardware, wiring, and circuit boards are built so close together, there was really not a whole lot of flexibility when it came to designing the interface. it is tight in there! i think it came out pretty nice though. i am just glad i didn't have to arrange all of the hardware in a more grid-like fashion. i hate that. the only thing that bothered me about the faceplates in the end was the engraving job. unfortunately my laser cutter is really starting to show its age... it is really time for me to buy a new tube, i think. it still does OK at cutting, although it takes a couple passes now, but engraving is a different story. the pulses are really starting to show in the lettering and graphics when looking at them from the reverse side. the customer didn't seem to mind though, so maybe i am overthinking it. either way, i should probably bite the bullet and buy a new tube. three and a half years is a pretty good run for something that was only supposed to last one.
:)

YAMAHA PS3 V2

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Wow! Eight months since my last post...
Well, this is what i have been working on since then. It is a new take on an old favorite, the Yamaha PS-3. This was a commission for Cico Beck Notwist, Aloa Input, and Joasihno. The project was only supposed to take a month or two, or so i thought. It ended up going waaay over though. 

I can't remember exactly what took things so far off track, but i think that it might have something to do with having to wait for two months to receive a replacement laser tube for my laser cutter. After 3 good years of solid use, my laser cutter lost the power to cut through wood or plastic. This is to be expected. I fact, the estimated life of a laser tube is actually only supposed to be around one year, so i felt like i got my moneys' worth. The company who i bought my laser cutter from(who i no longer recommend) had a longstanding promotional deal that encouraged their customers to submit photos of their works for the chance at a new, free laser tube, no strings attached. I contacted the company to see if the contest was still going on after all these(3) years. I was told that they were no longer holding the contest, but that if i agreed to do some promo work for them, i would receive a free laser tube replacement. Not having the money to spend on a new laser tube, i jumped at it. I ended up waiting and writing them for two months to see where the hell my tube was... They finally got back to me to tell me the guy who set up my deal was no longer with the company, and that they would like to come up with a new arrangement... Fuck that shit! Bye. So i ended up buying a new tube from ebay, and it works fine. Needless to say, i have deleted all links to their site from this page. Sorry guys. 
Anyway... Sorry to sound like a bad yelp review.


The Yamaha PS-3 is hands down my favorite keyboard to modify. It might have something to do with the service manual i have, but the LSI chip is so cooperative too. It is 8-voice para-phonic with two outputs; 4', and 8' (square wave). It has a "Key-On" trigger output that re-triggers every time a key is pressed, and different sustain settings for the internal VCA's of the individual voices. There are also 8 CV inputs for the individual VCA's, but i was unable to use this feature for any practical purpose. My original plan was to sequence the 8 VCA's to create an arpeggiator, but i found that the way in which the voice addresses scan the keyboard made the concept impossible. It is kind o f complicated, but basically what i found is that only six voices scan the keyboard unless two or more notes are held, so unless you were really good at math, it would be difficult to predict how the notes would be sequenced. I had enough trouble getting that far. The PS-3 LSI has lots of other great features too, like a built in drum machine with CV inputs for the perc. generators, and a tempo clock that is independent of the LSI clock. However, there was no room for these features in this build, so i left them all unconnected. Rather than going to all of the trouble of stripping down and modifying the giant main board of the PS-3, i simply removed the LSI chip, and scrapped everything else. I will save the VCA and VCF chips that were inside for a future project. I made a small daughter-board for the PS-3 LSI so that i could operate the keyboard with minimal connections. I also replaced the keyboard with one from a Yamaha PSS keyboard that i had scrapped a long time ago. It is exactly the same as the PS-3s' keyboard in that it has independent keys that can be replaced individually if need be, but the chassis is a solid piece of aluminum, whereas the PS-3 keyboard is mounted to the plastic shell of the instrument. It would be a lot more work to make that fit, so it was a no-brainer. Since i was using a good strong keyboard, it was also a no-brainer to add a pressure sensor to the keys to add aftertouch as a modulation source. 



Once the keyboard and LSI were wired up, i came up with a general signal path based from some of the things we had talked about adding. Among them being a sample/studder effect. I am just a hardware hacker, so when it comes to sampling and digital processing, i usually just look for something off the shelf that can be repurposed. In this case, it would be the "Ucreate Music" station. 



It is a neat little toy from the late 90's i think. It has  preprogrammed "beats" that can be used to make lo-fi hip-hop and DJ music. It also contains some really nasty lo-fi digital effects for processing external sound sources. I had never actually seen one of these instruments in the wild, but i knew from watching youtube videos that the effects' parameters could be modulated with the built in joystick ball controller, so it was likely that the instrument had analog inputs, and sure enough, it did. Most of the effects were pretty unremarkable. I had initially planned to only use the two sample/studder functions and leave off the rest since there would already be a higher quality effects processor in the build, as well as my own analog filters. However, the nasty "steppy" resonant VCF effect was so cheesy and cheap, i kind of fell for it. It took me right back to being a stony teen, watching Animorphs on lazy saturdays after all the cartoons were over. So i ended up keeping that one and the cheapo echo effect. They may not be the most useful effects, but you never know. When it comes to cheap DSP effects, i have never heard anything this lo-fi. 


The other effects processor was one that i have used multiple times in the past, and it is one of my favorite features to date. It is the modified Behringer reverb pedal, DD600. The DD600 pedals are usually pretty cheap since they are just cheap knock-offs of Boss pedals. The pedal on its own is as terrible as any online review would suggest. The controls are steppy and glitchy, and they are power hogs. Not to mention you need to use a regulated 9 volt power supply if not a battery. So most people will unload these paper weights for pretty cheap. I think the most i have spent on one is $20, which is not bad considering how much is laying dormant under the hood. The DD600 uses a CoolAudio V1000 chip which is basically an Alesis knock-off. The V1000 is being controlled by a little micro-controller with custom Behringer programs to generate the lackluster reverbs and delays. However, the V1000 has 16 of its own effects programs that can be accessed pretty easily by simply disconnecting the appropriate pins on the board, and adding a 4 bit switch to select all of the programs. Of course this renders the controls of the pedal useless,  so you have to build your own wet/dry mix control. The other thing i like to do with this chip is replace the V1000's timing crystal with a VCO. Sweeping the frequency of the VCO changes the sample rate of the V1000 and causes a really great swooshing pitch bend. The effect sounds a little bit different in each of the 16 programs.


Once the overall signal path was approved, i started by drawing up the keyboard enclosure. The design is pretty straight forward. Not too wild, but still pretty sexy. Once the design was approved, i then turned the drawing into parts, and cut them out using the laser cutter.


This is about how much plywood was needed, and since my laser cutter is so small, there were a lot of layers to cut. This is probably something i will try to outsource in the future.

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 Cutting all 52 of the parts out 5-6 at a time is pretty exiting. They take a while to cut, so in the time between layers, i like to try and assemble the pieces i have, and slowly build the enclosure like a puzzle. Cutting something like this usually takes a whole day on my little laser cutter.




 Once all of the parts are cut, i frame them all out with clamps and glue them up with either wood glue, hot glue, or super glue, depending on the joint. When everything is glued solid, the clamps come off and the excess wood tabs and teeth are cut off with a flush cut saw. 





 Then all of the joints are filled with wood filler. When it dries, i sand everything smooth.




The end cheeks are made with double layered plywood to achieve the 1/2" thickness. I create inverse templates to help choose what part of the wood grain to use from the sheet of birch veneer. The veneer is then glued to the plywood using contact cement. I then use an iron-on birch edge-band around the perimeter of the cheeks. the cheeks hardly end up looking like a real whole piece of wood, but that's not really what i'm going for anyway. For this project, i used the same veneer technique for the lateral strap across the keys too. The strap is the main access point to the keyboard keys.


The tolex for the rest of the enclosure is the same batch of red tolex that i had left over from the last PS-3. I have finally used it all up. I adhere the tolex to the enclosure by first applying a a generous even layer of "non-flammable" contact cement to one flat side of the enclosure, and to the tolex that will be connected to the flat edge of the enclosure. Once the contact cement is slightly dry and just tacky, the enclosure and the tolex can be put together. Then i apply a good amount of pressure to the contacting side, and let it set for a good hour or so before applying contact cement to the next flat section of the enclosure, and the respective part of the tolex that will make contact with it, and repeat the process. I keep doing this one flat section at a time, always putting ass much pressure on the tolex as possible, as well as giving it a good tight pull as i work my way around. Ideally, the excess tolex will pull in over the edges where it is not glued. Once i have made it all the way around, i apply even more pressure by adding clamps everywhere. I then let it set overnight, and come back to trim all of the excess tolex the next day. I roll over the excess on to the sides where the cheeks will be mounted, and super glue down the edge to give it a nice clean consistency.



Ok, so now that the box is done, what's left?


The electronic aspect of this project was pretty straight forward. there was really not too many roadblocks that i wasn't able to diagnose pretty quickly, so i will just do that thing where i systematically describe the entire thing now. But before i do, some of the more notable takeaways of this project were; if you are buying cheap parts like potentiometers from china, expect to get what you pay for, bias voltages on transistors may vary from transistor to transistor(LOL), and companders are pretty cool once you figure them out. Yay, i know how to use companders now. 

Ok, on to the functions. The PS-3 spits out two seperate voices, 4' and 8', which i have renamed voice1 and voiec2. Both voice1 and voice2 have their own state variable VCF with a small amount of resonance(but enough). Setting up these filters was kind of tricky because of the 8-voice polyphony being sent to them. If only one note is being played, the signal is pretty weak, but if you give it too much juice, the voice clips when more than three or four notes are pressed. You might be thinking this is where the compander comes in, but no, that didn't come to mind until i had decided that the signal level of the two voices would just have to be decided by the user. Besides, sometimes you want a little clipping, right? Anyway, the filters can each be set to HP(12db), BP(6db), or LP(12db). The filters are specially tweaked to work with the PS-3 LSI. They may not sound as lush as a big moog ladder filter, but they give the keyboard some great string and pad timbres. 


The filters have independent cutoff control that can be set manually and/or with each filters' respective Attack/Decay generator. The two A/D generators have their own attenuator, while the cutoff knob acts as a bias voltage. The A/D generators can be triggered by either the first "key-on" event, or by every successive "key-on" event, using the "Single/Multi" switch for each generator. The generators can also be re-triggered the sequencer clock, using the "Clock-Sync" switches for the respective voice.   



Each filter has a modulation input switch to select a modulation source to the filter cutoff. There are four modes; Manual, LFO, Pressure, and Inverted Pressure. in all four modes, the cutoff knob acts as an attenuator for the modulation input. The filters have independent resonance control knobs as well.

The two signals are combined after their filter stages with individual level control knobs, and sent to a single VCA. The VCA also has its own envelope generator with Attack, Decay, and Depth. The envelope generator can be triggered in all of the same ways as the other two envelope generators, including the "Clock-Sync" re-trigger. The VCA's envelope generator doubles as a global modulation source for other parameters as "EG3". The depth control of EG3 only controls the depth of the envelope generator to the VCA, so if EG3 is sourced to another parameter, the parameter's manual control knob will act as the signal attenuator to that parameter. The PS-3 has a sustain mode that i included. While on, the notes will hold for a little bit longer after the notes have been released. Otherwise, the notes will go silent as soon as the key is lifted.  





After the VCA stage, the signal is the mixed with the Line-In. The Line-In has its own level control, and it has a decent amount of gain. The combined signal is then sent to the Loop stage which consists of the Ucreate Music processor. There are two volume controls for Wet and Dry signals from the Ucreate. The Dry signal is just a straight buffered bypass of the Ucreate, and the Wet signal is what comes out of the Ucreate when it is engaged. There are two ways to engage or activate the Ucreate. the effect of the Ucreate will not come on unless it is manually engaged using the "Manual" LOOP/FX CAPTURE button, or if a key is pressed and held while in "Key-On" LOOP/FX CAPTURE mode. In the Key-On mode, while the Ucreate is set to LOOP1 or LOOP2, the Ucreate will re-sample the input every time a key is pressed. The Ucreate has four modes; Filter, Loop1, Loop2, and Echo. Each mode has two parameters
FILTER- Par1: Cutoff  Par2: Resonance
LOOP1- Par1: loop length  Par2: direction
LOOP2- Par1: loop length  Par2: pitch/direction
ECHO- Par1: amount  Par2: rate
Each parameter has its own modulation source switch with five settings; Manual, LFO, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. The parameter control knob acts as an attenuator in all five modes. 


After the Loop stage, the signal is then send to the REVERB/FX stage. it too has Wet and Dry volume controls. The REVERB/FX stage has 16 modes;
SPRING REVERB-CHAPEL REVERB-ROOM REVERB-CHURCH REVERB-CHORUS-ECHO-PHASER-FLANGER-BIG REVERB-SMALL REVERB-SMALL REVERB-GATED REVERB-AMBIENCE-EARLY REFLECTION-DELAY 2-DELAY1.
The Bit Rate of the Reverb/FX stage has a modulation input switch with five modes; Manual, LFO, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. The Bit Rate control knob acts as an attenuator in all five modes.


After the Reverb/FX stage, the signal is sent to the Master Volume control before being sent to the output and the speaker power amplifier if the line out is not in use.


The PS-3 also has an 8-step sequencer. The sequencer is used to  modulate the global pitch of the PS-3. The PS-3 also has a pitch modulation input switch and a respective attenuator control knob. The pitch modulation input has five settings; Manual, LFO, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. The pitch modulation input acts as a secondary control voltage to the PS-3's global pitch. The primary pitch control voltage of the PS-3 is set by control knob of the current sequencer step. This is step 1 while the sequencer is not running. When the SEQUENCER switch is set to MODE, there are three run modes to choose from. LOOP mode continuously loops the sequence regardless of key-on messages. GATE mode loops the sequence continuously as long as a key is held. if the key is let go, the sequence will pause on the most recent step until the next key-on message. ARP mode continuously loops the sequence as long as a key is held, until the keys are released, at which time the sequence resets to step 1 until the next key-on message. When the SEQUENCER mode switch is set to (8), once a key is pressed, the sequence will run up to step 8, and then hold it until the next key-on message, at which point it will reset and run back up to step 8 until the next key-on message, and so on. In SEQUENCER "MODE" mode, the sequencer can run in three direction modes; UP, DOWN, and UP/DOWN in which the sequence counts up to eight, changes direction, counts down to 1, changes direction, and so on. In (8) mode, the sequencer only counts UP. The sequencer has a PGM/PLAY button switch that allows the user to manually advance the sequence one step at a time with the PGM+1 button. This can be used to fine tune the pitch of each step, or just quickly transpose the global pitch of the keyboard to a desired key. The CLOCK-RATE knob controls the rate of the sequencer in play mode. It has a very wide range from about 1Hz to audible range. The clock rate control knob also doubles as an attenuator for the clock rate modulator input switch. Aside from manual control, it can also source LFO, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. 




The last two modulation sources are the Pressure Sens.(aftertouch), and the LFO. The pressure sensor is pretty straight forward. It has one control knob that sets both the rise and fall reaction time of the pressure sensor underneath the keys. There are two separate pressure CV outputs; positive and negative, or "Pressure" and "Inverse Pressure" respectively. They are both identical, but one is inverted. There are two indicator LEDs to represent the phase relationship of the two CV's.







The LFO section has four modes; Triangle, Square, Sample&Hold-Hard, and Sample&Hold-Soft. The triangle and square wave LFO's have independent rate control. They are actually two separate LFO's. The rate of the LFO's can be controlled by their respective Rate Modulation input switch. The switches have four settings; Manual, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. S/H- Hard is your typical sample and hold function. Every time the square wave goes high, it outputs whatever voltage the triangle LFO is at at that moment until the next high transition of the square wave oscillator, at which point the triangle wave will be re-sampled. The S/H-Soft mode is different in that the sample period of the square wave is 1/2 the frequency of the square wave LFO, so while it is in the sample phase of the oscillation, causing more of the triangle wave shape to be output. The effect is kind of like a mix of both waves, depending on how the LFO's rates are set. The output of the LFO is sent to an AC attenuator VCA circuit before being fed to all of the modulation input switches. The depth of the LFO is set by the LFO-DEPTH knob, which also doubles as an attenuator for the LFO modulation input switch. It has four modes; Manual, EG3, Pressure, and Inverse Pressure. It may seem strange to have an AC attenuator feeding out to a bunch of DC attenuators. It is, now that i think about it... Oh well, better than being stuck with just one of the two :)











So now that this project is finally finished after going 6 months over deadline, i am flat broke, i have no prospects and no job. I have no idea how i am going to make my next buck, but people are still busting down my door asking what's for sale. Well... i wish i had something to sell. I could really use the money right now. In the meantime, i am just going to keep making money where i can and hopefully get some stuff built to sell. Thank you everyone for your patience and understanding. Thanks especially to everyone who has been reaching out to me with the kind words of encouragement. I might not always have time to respond to emails, but i definitely read them all graciously. 
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
-tanner


VIDEO




FUN YEARS

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I was recently sent back this keyboard that I circuit bent some nine years ago. I remember spending a considerable(relative) amount of time making it, and in the end I was not very satisfied with how it turned out, but it worked, and I ended up selling it. More details on the original build can be found HERE. The keyboard had stopped working, so the owner contacted me to ask if I would repair it. I agreed, and before long, it was back home on the bench.
BEFORE
AFTER
When I first powered on the keyboard, the first thing I noticed, other than no power was that the supply was being shorted, so I opened it up to see if it could be remedied easily. I was greeted by a massive pile of rainbow ribbon cable, perfboard circuits and lots of hot glue. It really took me back seeing that mess, and how I used to have to build things. However nostalgic I was feeling, I was in no mood to try and dissect the circuit and all of those wires. Instead, I felt it would be easier to just completely gut the keyboard and rebuild it, and it was easier, even if it took a good week or two to finish. 


I stripped the keyboard down to the single COB PCB, and plugged it into a breadboard. I then whipped up a VCF, two LFO's, an amplifier, an auto-power-off disable circuit, some summing and boosting amplifiers, a CMOS distortion circuit with PWM, and a bunch of CV modulation buffers for the pitch bend, cutoff, PWM, LFO's, and distortion. Everything was pretty simple an straight forward, so the circuit came together pretty quick. 

ORIGINAL NOTES
NEW CIRCUIT
NOTES
The original faceplate was looking pretty rough, and most of the hardware was nasty, so I decided to cut a new faceplate, and use all new hardware. It was pretty straight forward, but space was limited, and when I was trying to lift up the keys, one key broke off.. The broken key set me back about a day, but I was able to find a replacement set that was only slightly smaller, but nice and new. The new keys also gave me a lot more room to work with since the original keys were and old set of used casio keys on top of clicky typing keyboard switches with lots of hot glue. They worked well enough, but took up a lot of space. I decided to add dust cloth to the back off the keyboard, since the PCB would be located pretty much under the keys, and debris could fall through the keys and compromise the circuit. Dust cloth is pretty useful. I also used some for the speaker cover after noticing the speaker magnet was sucking up all kinds of cut-off component leads, and making all kinds of buzzing.

BROKEN KEYS
ROUGHING NEW KEYS
ROUGHING NEW KEYS

DUST CLOTH
Once the interface layout was decided, and the faceplate was all drawn up, I engraved and cut out the faceplate on my lasercutter. I got it right in two tries. 

FACEPLATE DESIGN
ROUGHING FACEPLATE
The PCB was straight forward enough, but it was a little difficult going back to single sided CNC engraved circuit boards after being spoiled with PCB software and board-house PCB's. I only needed one though, so the CNC would have to do. The main PCB ended up taking a couple of days to design, cut, and populate. In the end, there were very few errors, and they were easy to remedy since the traces are so big. That is one advantage to engraving PCB's on a CNC.

PCB DESIGN

MAIN PCB
ASSEMBLY
WIRING IN PCB
PCB REVERSE SIDE
The keyboard's new functions are essentially the same as they were before. Maybe a little bit more reliable though, and more effective. The keyboard chip on its own has several functions. Some are more redundant, like volume up/down, and demo songs, so I left them out. In fact, the auto-power-off disable circuit is just an oscillator the repeatedly triggers the volume up switch. When the keyboard reaches its maximum volume, the switch makes no sound, and resets the A-P-O circuit continuously.
the functions I did include are the eight drum beats, sixteen timbres, tempo up/down, and record/playback. All of the functions are selectable with the eight push-button switches. The modes of the push-buttons are selected with the respective right or left shift switch. The four buttons on the left can select rhythms 1-4, or playback, record, tempo up/down. The four buttons on the right can select rhythms 5-8, or the 16 timbres with a combination of of two button presses. The lower octave of keys can also be shifted to one octave above the higher octave. This was a feature on the original mod that I though should be included since there are only two octaves of keys.
The keyboard's main voice output is sent to an amplifier circuit to be scaled for the VCF input. the output of the amp is also sent to another amplifier with very high gain. That amplifier sends it's signal to a couple of NAND gates that have a sort of PWM filter. The effect is a heavily distorted signal that has a sort of high-pass filter, or "d-color" as I've called. The distortion signal is mixed back with the clean signal via "clean" and "distortion" volume pots before being sent to the VCF. The VCF is my go-to LM13700 12db resonant LPF. The VCF signal is then sent to an LM386 power amplifier to drive the output. There is also a line input that is summed to the main keyboard signal, so external signals can be sent through the distortion and filter circuits in the same way the keyboard is. The line in on the original mod did not work very well, from what I remember, but this is a huge improvement. There are two LFO's for modulation. Each has triangle and square wave outputs, and the LFO rates are controlled with a joystick. The LFO's have depth control pots, depth/frequency indicator LED's, and four-way select switches to modulate CV parameters. LFO1 can modulate "d-color", "pitch", or "cutoff", and LFO2 can modulate LFO1 rate, "pitch", or "cutoff". The joystick can also be set to modulate any combination of cutoff, pitch or d-color as well.




This keyboard is pretty sweet now. It is a whole new beast, and I am glad that I was able to finally get this keyboard to work in a way that I am actually satisfied with. Over the years I have taken on some pretty huge and long winded projects that this original mod doesn't even come close to, but at the time, this project was pretty defeating, and I think that stayed with me in a small way. It is nice to see this new thing connected to that time, and to see how far I have come since then. Now I must say goodbye again, and return it to its owner. See you again, maybe in another nine years :) 

WADDINGTONS COMPUTE-A-TUNE

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Hello!?...
I have been clearing out my workshop and getting rid of things I don't want or have time for, in the hopes of someday getting back to circuit bending and blogging again, but just for my own amusement.
I am making a lot of progress, and my workshop is looking great, but I have run into some things that are too precious to throw out but not worthy of selling in the condition they are in. I had been holding onto this Waddingtons Compute-A-Tune for at least a decade, and I couldn't bring myself to throw it out. It had some major issues and was not worth even trying to sell for $20...
The Compute-A-Tune is a very old toy keyboard that i think was only sold in the UK in the early 80's. The synthesizer is based around the TMS1000, which if I am not mistaken-was the first microcontroller!
Unfortunately the original knobs that controlled the volume and "effect" had broken off, and the circuit-board inside was heavily corroded since there didn't appear to have ever been a solder mask. 
So rather than just throwing the whole thing away, I decided to give it a face lift. I started by reverse engineering the circuit, and found an additional tempo, and another chord mode. Now to come up with a some modern upgrades. I started with the power supply. The TMS1000 needs at least 15 volts to even turn on. The keyboard ran off two 9 volt batteries in series. This seemed wasteful to me so I built a circuit that would provide the TMS1000 17 volts from one 9 volt input using an ICL7660S charge pump chip. These chips can be noisy and don't deliver much current, but in this case there were no issues, since the keyboard is already pretty alias-y, and very digital sounding. The next step was to try and find a way to get the playback button to repeat after the recorded melody had played through. For this, I used a CD4098 dual monostabe multivibrator chip. I have been using these a lot lately. They are a very useful chip for lots of reasons, but in this case i used the chip as a re-settable pulse delay. Essentially, the gate output from the recorded melody re-triggers a a delayed pulse, and as soon as there is no gate to reset the delay, the pulse is able to re-trigger the "PLAY" switch, causing the recorded melody to  play continuously.
The next thing to do was create a more interesting mix of the square wave tone and its three available sub octaves. I had seen a schematic floating around for a diode VCA used in Lunetta circuits, but I had never actually tried it before. I was pleasantly surprised with how well it worked, so I built one for the top octave and another for the three subs. I used a CD4093 quad Nand gate as inverting buffers for the VCA's, and for the sub octaves, I added a PWM filter and a mixing switch to set different combinations of the sub octaves Nand-ed together. With the remaining two Nand gates, I made two separate trapezoid  LFO's; one to modulate the PWM, and another for vibrato.
Next, I needed envelope generators for the VCA's, so I crafted two looping attack-decay envelope generators from a CD4013 dual flip flop chip. I haven't seen a circuit like it, so if you're inclined, take a look at my schematic. It is simple but useful.
Once my circuits were all tested and working, I went to work redesigning the keyboard and the interface. I cut out circuit boards on my desktop CNC, which is always fun... The most challenging part being the circuit board with the thumb-wheel pots, because the circuit board had to line up perfectly with the existing mounting hole, and the pots had to stick out of the shell just right. Somehow it came out perfect the first try. Completely measuring the shell and creating a 3D model of it helped.
Assembling everything was slow and tedious. I really didn't want to screw it up, and there wasn't a lot of room to make mistakes. I was able to find a battery compartment that hold 6 AAA batteries from a strange flashlight repair parts site. It seemed like a strange site, but the battery compartment was only $4, so I gave it a shot and it arrived in a couple of days. The battery compartment needed to modified slightly, but it fits perfectly inside the original cavity. 
There were a few mistakes along the way, but for the most part, everything came out as planned. One thing that I only noticed once the mod were done, was that the "TUNES" function is pretty much useless... I had thought that you could use the four settings as places to store separate recorded melodies, but I was wrong, and they only work to set the demo melody when the power is reset. Had I known this, I wouldn't have included the setting in the mod. Oh well.
I took lots of pictures along the way. click on any of them to see larger views.
Video coming soon...
 








 



FUNKY GLITCH BUDDY-REVISED

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While cleaning shop, I came across an old friend. I built this little keyboard monster back in 2013. The FUNKY GLITCH BUDDY was an interesting concept, but it suffered from some pretty challenging design flaws that I had always wanted to fix, but never had the time. For one, the keyboard would draw so much current due to the fact that the keys were all infrared proximity sensors. There were a lot of 7400 series chips and opto-isolators in the design too, so overall this thing was pretty inefficient and noisy. Two of the voices were 8-bit LFSR noise generators which didn't particularly sound like noise. The third oscillator was a basic two transistor oscillator that I ripped out of a cheap organ toy, and had died some time ago. At the time of this build, I had just started using my CNC to engrave and cut my own circuit boards. This was my first project using the CNC, and the design and orientation was pretty sloppy. Everything was jammed together, and I never even took the time to draw out my schematics, so finding and fixing problems years later was difficult to do. Instead I thought it would be quicker and more fun to just completely redesign the circuit.
The concept for the new version would pretty much stay the same, but there would be three LFSR noise generators instead of just two, and the pattern select keys would just cycle through the patterns rather than shifting through patterns depending on how far down the key was pressed. I replaced all of the 7400 series chips with their 4000 series counterparts, and got rid of any opto-isolators and unnecessary reference voltage trimmers. I used OTA VCA's. Unfortunately I hadn't yet discovered the Lunetta style diode VCA' at this point, which would have been perfect for this application... Oh well. Since the pattern select switches were sequential, I had three extra switches to make use of. The original design could only shift through 8 patterns with the variable-press keys, so I had "SHIFT" switches for each pattern to access the other 8 available patterns. Now that I didn't need the shift switches, I used them to set different taps for the LFSR noise generators. I have found that when it comes to LFSR noise, there are certain bit lengths that sound better than others, and they are not always the longest. Shifting the taps is a nice feature but can be problematic sometimes, because shifting the inputs can sometimes cause the LFSR to lose its "SEED"... Without going too far into LFSR's, I'll just say it was a little troublesome towards the end but I was able to create stable LFSR's with a little trial and error. I found that the more finicky tap combinations preferred CD4014 to CD4021 chips, which I don't fully understand why, but whatever, they work.. 
I had to get creative with some limitations to the interface, too, since there was no "freq" or "lfo" hardware for the voice that had been the toy organ oscillator. The pitch and LFO of the third(red) voice is shared with the second(blue), and the "amt" control is an attenu-verter, so the third voice can not be totally attenuated with the VCA. However, one of the 16 patterns is 0000000000000000, so it is possible to mute the voice that way.
The new circuitry was pretty easy to design and prototype on breadboard. I tend to use my CNC less and less these days since ordering PCB's from china is so affordable and easy. It seemed fitting that I design and cut all of my circuit boards with my CNC for this project since it was the first ever project I used the CNC for. Designing circuit boards this way is pretty challenging and frustrating sometimes, but it is gratifying when it comes out. 
The FUNKY GLITCH BUDDY is now finally up to my liking and it is pretty fun to play.











EHX 16 SECOND DELAY MOD

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A friend of a friend contacted me in the summer of 2020 to have his EHX 16 Second Delay reissue modified. I had done some pedal mods for him in the past, so I was willing to give it a go, even though I was pretty bogged down with remodeling projects in my house. I was happy to be in my shop again and working with something other than drywall.. I didn't end up finishing the mod until the winter of 2021, but the owner didn't seem to mind the wait. Thanks Joe!
I can't remember what exactly he originally asked for, but I think he complained that the sound was too digital and he wanted to be able to switch the feedback on and off. Those were easy enough things to address, but I also came up with a bunch of other mods that I thought would compliment the pedal, and he agreed. So I spent some late hours of the nights that I wasn't too sleepy to mod this crazy beast.
The original plan was to create an analog signal path from the output of the pedal to the input with highpass and lowpass filters, but unfortunately there was just too much aliasing noise feeding back and being amplified, so I had to scrap that plan. I kept the filters, just created an alternative analog output to give the pedal a warmer sound. At least I think that's what I did... To be honest, at the time I am writing this, I am having trouble deciphering my notes and schematics, and my Kicad files are a mess from a catastrophic version change... I do not have a video to reference and the pedal got shipped home over a year ago, so I am just trying to recall from memory. I am pretty sure that the filters do NOT feed back into the delay though.
All of the controls on the pedal are 3.6 volt CV inputs so I added mod switches for most of them to be modulated by either a guitar audio triggered envelope generator or an external CV/pedal. The slope of each can be inverted independently. I drew up a pretty useful manual, so I will defer to that... 
I found a pretty cool local seller of high quality toggle switches. I love the stubby little ones!
Well, I guess I'll keep this short since I cant recall too much about building this. I will say though that this pedal is powerhouse of drone! If you see one, get it! It is always a treat to occasionally mod or repair rare things that I was never aware existed. I only wish i had recorded it before sending it back.






MATATRON!!!

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My old buddy Matt Wright contacted me recently and asked if he could buy my FUNKY GLITCH BUDDY. I don't know why, but it is hard for me to sell things to good friends... Do you give them a discount?.. Or just give it away?.. Either way, I didn't want to give up my funky buddy just yet, so instead, I would build him something unique as a friendly gift. Matt is a master guitar tech/luthier, so I wanted to make him something guitar shaped that he could hang in his shop and maybe be a conversation piece. 

I have been holding on to this "Music Maker" guitar for years, and I was actually about to get rid of it. I grabbed it from the pile and devised a plan for the circuit and hardware arrangement. The original circuitry in the guitar probably could have worked, but it was a little slow to respond to key-presses, so I decided to go with another toy organ COB circuit from an old Hal Leonard Piano Fun keyboard. A lot of early 90's toy keyboards can actually be pretty useful as the base for a synthesizer. They usually have gate outputs that trigger volume envelopes on key-presses. A little reverse engineering, and you have a square wave VCO with a keyboard input and a gate out. 

I thought it would be cool to use the square wave VCO to clock an LFSR noise generator circuit. I have been experimenting with LFSR's a lot lately... The only problem with this idea, is that the LFSR patterns are so long, the pitches of the VCO end up being too low for my liking, so I fed the square wave VCO to CD4046 frequency multiplier. I found that the CD4046 can cover almost 7 octaves, and since I didn't want to be stuck with just one, I added a CD4512 data selector chip to set the one of seven octaves. I also wasn't content with just one LFSR pattern length, so I selected my favorite 8 of a certain combination of taps, and fed them to another CD4512. I wanted to be able to shift through the pattern lengths and octaves smoothly, so I programmed a micro-controller to be a dual 3-bit flash ADC with code from robstave/ArdinoComponentSketches. The octave and LFSR shifting are the heart of this design, and they sounded really crazy and fun on their own, but I wanted a little more control, so I threw in a diode based Lunetta style VCA, as well as a PWM filter for the main voice. For modulation, I put in two looping AR generators; one for the VCA and one for modulating the PWM or the pitch of the keyboard. I modified the VCA envelope generator so that it could be switched from Attack/Decay, to Attack/Release in "SUST" mode(see faceplate).

Once everything was bread-boarded, working, and documented, I thought it might be nice to use the design in other builds. I was also thinking it would be a lot easier to have some nice new PCB's made instead of the painstaking task of engraving a PCB on my CNC, so I opened up KiCad and did it the easy way. I think I was overcharged, but you won't hear me complaining because I only spent about $20, and 10 perfect circuit boards were on my doorstep in just one week! I really don't think anything can bring me more joy than circuit boards in the mail.

Anyway, while I was waiting for the PCB's to arrive, I prepped the body of the guitar. I made all of my hardware selections and designed a faceplate. Without an accurate method for measuring the dimensions of the guitar toy, it was difficult to determine a good perimeter for the faceplate. In the end, I ended up just taking a picture of the guitar and tracing it. I cut the shape out of paper on my laser cutter and adjusted the drawing as needed. Surprisingly, I got a pretty good shape on the third try. I cut out the faceplate and painted it blue. I use acrylic airbrush paint because it doesn't react with the plastic, but it can scratch easily, so I usually always cut out a piece of dust cloth to match the shape of the faceplate and protect the paint from the hardware that is mounted to the underside.

Well, I'm sure I haven't covered everything, but this one is pretty straight forward. Hopefully my future self will be able decipher the details in ten years time ;)









     

NTSH

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The NTSH is a mini joystick noise synth.

It consists of; 

- one white noise generator

-one square wave oscillator

-one 12db resonant LP filter

-one Sample&Hold/envelope generator



The controls;

The joystick on the left controls the Filter Cutoff and the Pitch of the Square Wave VCO, while the joystick on the right controls the Gate frequency of the Sample&Hold, and the frequency of the Triangle Wave that is being sampled.

The Gate frequency is also the frequency of the Envelope Generator.

The Gate/Attack Time switch will set the Envelope Generator to either Triangle or Saw waveform.

In Triangle mode, the Sample&Hold Gate time will be at 50% on/off ratio. This will cause the modulation to sweep at the Triangle oscillator frequency between samples. 

The Sample&Hold and Envelope Generator modulation sources can each be set to VCO Pitch, VCF Cutoff, or both VCO and VCF together.

The Mixer switch sets the Voice output to VCO, Noise, or both Mixed.

The Mixer switch set to QOSC will turn off the Noise and VCO to the filter, and set the Resonance to self oscillation. The Filter Cutoff sets the QOSC frequency.

In QOSC mode, the Q knob is disabled. In all other modes, it sets the Resonance of the VCF.

The Volume knob sets the output volume level.

The NTSH has a power ON/OFF switch, 1/4 inch output jack, and built in speaker.

The NTSH can be powered by 3 AAA batteries, or with a standard 6-9VDC center positive adapter.


The design;

 The NTSH is smaller in size to other NT boxes by about half. 

The electronics are all analog, and designed from scratch. 











The goal was to design and build a new NT box that was smaller and more accessible for people to buy and support my work. These small boxes are relatively easier to build than the other NT box designs that came before it. They still take several days each to make, but because of their small size and limited function, it is a much less daunting task. I have trimmed a lot of the build time by investing in better power tools for sanding and shaping the boxes, and rather than hand painting the the face-plates, I am using colored acrylic. It costs a bit more, but I just don't have the time these days to do everything by hand anymore. The only drawback is that the colors are pretty limited.

The signal path of the NTSH is pretty basic but it covers a lot, I think. I knew I wanted a white noise generator with a resonant filter. I just love that sound. There wasn't enough space for any kind of sequencer, so I thought a S&H would be nice. The first iteration of the circuit used a bunch of cmos oscillators at different frequencies as a modulation source, because I thought a real S&H would take up too much space, but actually it was the other way around, and the cmos oscillators were difficult to control together in a reliable way. The most difficult but also must interesting part of this build was to come up with as many practical and quality functions as possible with such a small footprint. The end result is such a tight fit in the box, but I think it is perfectly balanced in sized and functionality. The circuitry was also very helpful.. By that I mean, the final circuit seemed to offer up solutions or new features that I hadn't intended using, and usually didn't require too much effort. For one thing, the white noise generator required a charge pump circuit to generate 12 volts to work. However, the current didn't have to be much, so I used the VCO to charge the pump(pump the charge?). Then the S&H gate offered up a perfect synced envelope generator, and the switch to make the gate/attack time 1/1 made both the S&H and envelope so much more dynamic. The Qosc function was something I decided to add after I had already finished the first prototype. It had occurred to me that the self oscillating filter sounded really great without an input signal, and implementing this was literally adding one connection to the Mixer switch! Sometimes things are meant to be.

NT05

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The NT05 is a "LoFi RhythmBox"

It consists of;

-Two voices; "Sine" and "Noise"

-Two 128 step pattern banks

-Eight selectable rhythms

-Two "Pad" envelopes

-One LFO


VOICES

The Sine voice has a VCA knob, Distortion knob, and Pitch knob. The Distortion knob effects the waveshape of the oscillator. At the low end, the waveshape is triangular. Midway it is Sine, and at full, the oscillator is squarewave. The Sine VCA knob sets the offset of the VCA, and can be used as a volume mix knob when other modulation inputs are not in use. The Sine VCA can be modulated by any combination of the LFO, Pad EG2, and the Sine Pattern bank EG. The Sine Pitch knob sets the offset of the Sine VCO, and can be used as a pitch control when the VCO is not being modulated. The Sine Pitch can also be modulated by any combination of the LFO, Pad EG2, and Sine Pattern bank EG, however, the LFO and EG2 can only modulate one or the other; VCA or Pitch. Likewise, Pad EG2 can only modulate one or the other; VCA or Pitch. When Pad EG2 is set to Pitch, the Pitch knob sets the depth of the envelope. The Sine Pattern EG is triggered by the Sine Pattern bank. The envelope modulates the Sine VCA, and can also modulate the Pitch. The Bend knob sets the depth at which the envelope modulates the Pitch. The decay of the envelope is controlled with the Decay knob. The decay can be modulated by the LFO via the Sine Decay Mod switch, however the decay has to be set longer, as the LFO can only shorten the decay time of the envelope. 

The Noise voice has all of the same VCA, Pitch, and modulation features as the Sine voice minus the distortion knob. The Noise voice is derived from a "LFSR" type pseudo-random-noise generator. The pattern length of the LFSR can be set to one of eight lengths. The shorter lengths are more harmonic, while the longer lengths sound noisier. When the LFSR Select switch is pressed down, the touch pads can be used to select the desired LFSR pattern length. A number below each touch pad represents the corresponding  pattern length.


PATTERN BANKS

The two Pattern Banks record and play back 128 steps continuously. There are eight two-channel 16-step rhythms to choose from for inputting into the Pattern banks. The touch pads select the rhythm, and as long as the pad is held, both Pattern banks will record their respective channel. Alternatively, there is a third channel per rhythm that can be substituted to either Sine or Noise Pattern by pressing the Pattern's respective Beat Roll switch. Each of the eight rhythms has a unique Beat Roll that is shared between the Sine and Noise pattern. Both the Sine and Noise Patterns have their own Step Erase switch. As long as this switch is held, the respective pattern will be erased one step at a time. There is also a Clear All switch that will instantly erase both patterns entirely. The Pattern Banks have two settings; Record, and Run. In Run mode, any rhythm input will trigger the Pattern EG's, but will not be recorded to the Pattern. Any rhythms already recorded will be looped continuously. In Record mode, the Pattern will continuously write over itself with any new input, or the looping output. The Pattern Banks are clocked by the Rate oscillator. The speed of the rhythms are set by the Rate knob, but can also be synced to external 5 volt clock signals via the Clk In jack. The internal or external clock source can also be sent out to other devices via the Clk Out jack. The Noise Pattern Bank can also be sent out to external devices via the Seq Out jack. All inputs and outputs are 0-5 volts.


LFO

The LFO can be used to modulate the VCA's, Pitch VCO's, and Pattern EG's as described in VOICES. The Rate and Depth of the LFO are controlled with the joystick. The Rate of the LFO can set to high or low via the HI switch next to the joystick. The rate of the LFO can also be modulated by Pad EG1 via the LFO Mod switch. The Depth control of the LFO can be set to bipolar or unipolar via the Offset switch next to the joystick. In bipolar mode, the LFO depth will rest midway when the LFO is fully attenuated. In uni-polar mode, the LFO depth will rest at zero when the LFO is fully attenuated. While the Pad EG1 LFO Mod is engaged, the Depth control sets the depth of the envelope to the LFO.


PAD ENVELOPES

The two Pad Envelope Generators; EG1, EG2, are velocity sensitive, and are triggered either internally by tapping the unit, or externally via the Pad Input jack. The Pad Input jack was designed to accept any manner of input, but responds best to piezoelectric transducers like the one that is built into the unit. While the Pad Input jack is in use, the internal piezo is disabled. The Pad EG's have independent Decay knobs, and independent Invert switches. The Invert switches invert the response of their respective envelope generator. The Pad Input has a Response control knob to set the sensitivity of the Pad or input. The Response knob can be helpful when inputting stronger or weaker signals from devices such as audio signals or microphonic devices.


OTHER PERIPHERALS

-Built-in speaker.

-Standard Boss style DC adapter

-Master Volume control knob

-Power on/off switch

-1/4 inch output jack

-6xAA battery compartment







bla-bla coming soon...





GLITCH CAMERAS AND HOW

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Circuit bending digital cameras has been a love of mine over the past decade or so. I recently picked up a new camera at the thrift store, and it reminded me that I really need to do a write up on it. 
In the mid 2000's, about the same time I started circuit bending my first Casio SK-1, I was really obsessed with this key chain camera I had. It had extremely low resolution and frame rate, and no display, but it could take video clips, and if you really abused the auto white balance, you could get the camera to glitch a few frames. At the time I thought this was the greatest thing I had ever seen! A few years later, my circuit bending skills had come a long way. I was the proud owner of a pocket oscilloscope, and I was using it on just about everything I could get my hands on. My little key chain camera revealed a lot about how it worked while probing the data pins with the camera set up as a PC cam. I noticed that the data signals coming from the CMOS sensor would change when I passed my hand in front of the lens. I did my best to short the data pins with tiny pieces of wire, and was instantly blown away with the results. The glitches were like huge bursts of color patterns made from the original image. It was pretty obvious why this happens. The data from the sensor is simply misread by the processor chip, and all of the incoming image data is mixed up. Different combinations of shorted pins give different colors and intensities. This was my first circuit bent camera, and needless to say, it didn't last very long. Thankfully, cheap digital cameras are not hard to find these days. They are practically free, and nicer older models are very affordable. I spent many years collecting and looking for the perfect digital camera for circuit bending. For a while, my ideal camera was any small point and shoot camera with a CMOS sensor. It had to be CMOS because they have the data pins in parallel straight from the sensor. CCD sensors did not(or so I thought). The ideal camera also had to have lower resolution; usually no more than 5MP. I found quite a few models that worked great, but each had their own flaws. What I really wanted to find was a camera with a "live view" viewfinder. Unfortunately those are usually reserved for nicer cameras, and nicer cameras use CCD image sensors. Years later I decided to have another try at CCD sensor cameras,and I'm glad I did. I had an old Canon that was half broken. I found a service manual for it, and in the schematic I noticed an analog to digital converter chip between the CCD image sensor and the image processor.. Could it be? Parallel data lines? Yes! Not only that but there were solderable test pads for all of the pins on the circuit board. I tested the pins with my oscilloscope, and they were just like what I would find coming from the CMOS sensors. I carefully soldered 0.1mm enamel wire to the test points and led them out through the case to a micro switch circuit board cut from my CNC. This was my first circuit bent CCD camera! Both CMOS and CCD cameras are amazing when they are circuit bent. CMOS camera glitches tend to be brighter and bolder and make your images seem more minimal and impressionistic. This pairs really well with a manual zoom security camera lens for focusing out on the image. CCD cameras excel at pretty much everything else. I tend to look for older flagship point and shoot cameras because while their resolution isn't quite as high as modern standards, the optics and user interface are top quality for the era. My go-to's have been canon and Panasonic. Each has their advantages and flaws. I learned the hard way that there was a brief time in the early 2000's when one company was making all of the image sensors for everyone, and they all went bad, so there are a lot of used cameras out there that work fine, except they don't take pictures and never will again because they can't be fixed. Consider this when looking for a used camera from the early 2000's. One BIG advantage to Canon cameras is that many of them are compatible with CHDK which opens up even more potential!

Ok, so  some thing things to mention on the "HOW"..
Modding cameras is easy in theory, but is actually pretty difficult, and could potentially be dangerous. Cameras have high voltage capacitors used to drive the flash, and can store a pretty big blast even when powered off. When I open up a camera the first thing I do is ground myself. Then I find the flash capacitor and discharge it. Most service manuals I've read recommend shorting the pins of the capacitor through a 1K 5 watt resistor for 30 seconds, then check that the voltage is more or less zero. I always follow the service manual if one is available. Manuals help keep track of the disassembly procedure and if I'm lucky there will be a schematic that shows me where to find the ADC. Soldering to the tiny pins can be very frustrating and tedious. I use 0.1mm enamel wire. It is about as thick as hair and can be hard to even hold. A steady hand and strong eyes go a long way.


CCD CAMERAS





CMOS CAMERAS






CCD CAMERA INSIDE

WIRE LEADS SOLDERED AND HOT-GLUED





CMOS CAMERA INSIDE



WIRES SOLDERED DIRECTLY TO SENSOR IC



RANDOM SAMPLINGS









NTSH BACK IN STOCK

SUZUKI PK-37

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Shortly after finishing the NTSH and NT05, I decided to start this project. I was looking for something to do that I could just slowly chip away at over the summer. I had been doing some reverse-engineering of some of my toy keyboards for fun. I started with a Casio MT-40, then moved on to the Casio SK-1 using Kicad to draw the schematics cleanly. After those, I needed a bigger challenge. I had been hanging on to this pair of Suzuki PK-37's for several years. The first one I found at the Goodwill bins probably ten or fifteen years ago. It was dirt cheap and was pretty busted up. The main-board inside was badly corroded, but I was able to get it to turn on and make some sounds. Aside from all of the hiss and noise that keyboards of this era tend to have, I really like the warm lo-fi quality of the sound and the classic home-organ features. It has some nice punchy analogue drums and a cheesy arpeggio in the accompaniment section. It also has a lead-chord mode that turns the lead keys into chords relative to the accompaniment key when it is on. I remember that function on another old home organ I had years ago that I accidentally fried and was sad about. The keyboard was in terrible condition, and some of the keys were broken, so I just added it to the pile of future projects. Years later, I found another one that was in perfect condition. Well almost.. I can't remember if I bought it on Ebay, or I found it at goodwill again. I am pretty sure I paid more for it though. Despite being cosmetically perfect, I was never able to get anything but the drums to play. I figured it could be repaired someday, and threw it in with the others. When I finally got around to opening them up and checking them out, the first one I found was a rotten mess, and barely turned on. The other seemed to be fried... 


The PK-37 is built around the M112 polyphonic sound generator chip, and is programmed by a M3872 microcontroller. Upon closer inspection of the non-working unit, I noticed that there was no polarity protection diode from the power supply. However, there was one in the rotten unit that still made sound. I imagine the keyboard was fried early on in its life, and that is why it stayed in such good condition. All of the 5 volt IC's were protected by a linear regulator, but sadly the M112 was toast. I later noticed that the keyboards had slightly different logos printed on them. The one that was fried just had SUZUKI on the front, whereas the rotten working one had SUZUKI with UNITED STATES printed underneath. Both were made in Italy by Siel. In fact, there were several variations of this keyboard by different brands. I think they were all made in Italy though. 

Original PK-37 main board

My schematic

I spent about three days reverse-engineering the PK-37 probing traces and components and drawing up schematics in Kicad. the circuit board was double sided which would have been expensive for when it was made. The through-hole vias were actual springs that were soldered in by hand. It was pretty interesting to imagine what the designers were thinking when they made this. It's not hard to see why there is so much hiss and hum in the circuit. I am no expert in circuit design, but it was pretty easy to spot some modern day faux pas. After confidently reverse-engineering the keyboard and drawing up a pretty nice schematic, I did a search on the M112 datasheet. I found the datasheet as well as the schematic for the Siel MK370. Aside from a couple different component values here and there, it was exactly the same as the Suzuki PK-37, and was actually cleaner than my schematic.. I actually ended up using it as a reference throughout the project instead of the schematic I drew.
Over the course of this project, there were a lot of ideas that I thought were good, but had to abandon. One of the first ideas I had was to incorporate a Hagiwo style drum sequencer to trigger the analogue drum sounds in sync with the accompaniment section. I was able to get it working, but it ended up being too slow and glitchy. Instead, I created a switch matrix so that the drum sounds could be triggered by any of the five drum pattern channels. I will have to save that Hagiwo sequencer for something else. The first circuit board I had made was basically just a fundamental-ish board for the M112 and microcontroller, just to get the keys connected and some voices coming out. Basically just a stripped down version of the PK-37 without any voice filtering or audio signal mixing. I replaced the 4Mhz crystal with a HC4046 VCO that can bend one octave. I also added a better vibrato circuit with speed and depth controls. 

M112 control main board

Top side assembled

Bottom side assembled

I designed the circuit board using Kicad and had it manufactured by JLCPCB. I designed the first faceplate for the left-most section of the keyboard to have all the rhythm and accompaniment controls, as well as the pitch and vibrato. The switches, pots and other hardware are mounted to a separate circuit board that I engraved myself with my CNC router. The hardware board is connected to the faceplate. In order to mount the hardware boards to the faceplate, I laser-cut cardboard templates for where the holes and other cavities should be cut so that the parts could pass through the body of the keyboard. I really wanted to keep the keyboard enclosure as whole as possible to ensure structural integrity. Rather than just cutting out huge cavities, I drilled and cut individual holes where I could with a dremel and a carbide endmill. I cut temporary faceplates out of cardboard to use while prototyping the circuits. This way I don't have to worry about damaging them, and I can easily remove or modify them while I'm working. 

Hole cutting template

Temporary cardboard faceplate

The second circuit board I had made was the rhythm voice board. Like the M112 board, I redesigned all of the circuitry using surface mount components, with the exception of the capacitors for the drum voice oscillators. I used red poly caps, but I think I could have just used SMD MLCC with no problems. The drum sounds are mostly MFB/Twin-T style oscillators with some white noise mixed in the snare and the cymbal voices. Some time in the future, I plan to add pitch knobs for some of the voices. I kind of regret not including them in the design, but it is a super easy mod, and I will probably end up modding this thing a lot as time goes on. I also added a basic filter to the mixed output of the rhythm mix. Originally, I had just a cutoff knob and a HP/LP select switch, but the high pass and lowpass filters were only 6db, and they left a lot to be desired with the minimal drum sounds, so I went in and changed it to a 12db lowpass filter and used the switch to turn the resonance up. I called it "GAIN" on the faceplate graphics. Now the filter gives the rhythm mix a little more punchy compression sound. 

Rhythm section PCB

Rhythm PCB mounted to hardware board

Rhythm and accompaniment control section installed

The rhythm clock oscillator is unique on the PK-37. Rather than just having a tempo control pot to the microcontroller, there is an external R/C oscillator clocking the drum patterns and accompaniment. This would make it possible to not only sync to the PK-37, but also sync the PK-37 to other clock sources. The clock speed is pretty high.This makes it possible for the PK-37 to have more dynamic rhythm patterns, but in order to use more conventional external clock sources, I had to add a clock multiplier to the sync input. The clock multiplier is applied to the internal clock and the clock sync output as well. It can be set to x2, x4, x8 or x16.
 
Chord Bass Rhythm temporary faceplate installed

Once the left-most section was working, I moved on to the accompaniment section. The original accompaniment section consisted of a mono bass and a chord section with three separate footages. Both voices had a VCA and envelope generator that were gated by the microcontroller when the accompaniment was playing. The accompaniment patterns are super cheesy and not nearly as cool as some older Italian accompaniment machines. Like the drum voices, I added select switches to the bass and chord voices. They can be triggered by one of any rhythm, bass or chord pattern channel. The mono bass voice was pretty basic. Just a square-wave with a weak enveloped VCA. I got rid of it and added a voltage controlled PWM filter, followed by a diode VCA, followed by a 12db lowpass filter with resonance. I added a proper attack/release generator to modulate either the VCA or VCF, depending on the mode switch. I added the same attack/release generator to the chord voice, but without a depth knob. The chord voice had three separate octaves coming from the M112 chip that were mixed together. I took them apart and added individual VCA's to each one. I wanted to be able to modulate the levels separately with LFO's. The chord voice seemed kind of basic. I wanted to give it some life, so I added a PT2399 based chorus circuit to it. I had originally planned to use the "Little Angel" circuit, but it was too subtle for the mix. In the end I had to modify the circuit to modulate the delay-time pin, and get rid of all of the other Little Angel trickery, as it was not necessary. The chorus circuit has a rate and depth knob. The effect sounds really good, but only really in contrast to it not being there at all. It really sounds its best when the rate is being modulated slowly. 

Hole cutting template for Chord, Bass, and Rhythm section faceplate

Holes cut for hardware to pass through keyboard enclosure

Once the accompaniment section was prototyped and working properly, I had the third circuit board made. Along with the chord and bass voices, I included the lead voice to the circuit board. I was already anticipating trouble with the next section to come, so I wanted to have all the easy stuff on one board that I knew would work, or at least be easy to fix, if need be. The lead voice is an 8-note polyphonic oscillator. The eight separate voices are mixed together externally, but they cannot really be separated in any useful kind of way. The voices are not separated note-by-note, but by footage and key groups. It was kind of fun to destroy the waveforms by mixing the eight voices in different ways, but it was hardly the sound I was going for, so I left them mixed as intended. The PK-37 had eight different standard home-organ timbres. There was a kind of interesting filter matrix using a CD4051 multiplexer that I had never seen done before. Behind all of the filtering and modulation, there were really only six different waveforms. I got rid of the filter matrix and added a 12db BP/LP filter with resonance and a nice attack/release envelope to modulate it. The M112 chip has some volume envelope controls, but they were not very consistent. The "attack" control pin also seemed to effect the envelope depth, which caused my filter envelope to trigger at different times, so I only added a knob for the decay/release. Each of the six waveforms have slightly different envelope characteristics. some have really short release, and some are long. The "Envelope" control knob acts more like a piano sustain, and can be set to almost continuous. It is a nice feature, but it doesn't play too well with the filter's envelope generator either. In order to trigger the VCF envelope generator, I built eight separate gate-to-trigger circuits to trigger the VCF envelope every time a key is pressed. The PK-37 has eight capacitors connected to the M112 for envelope timing. The gate-to trigger circuits are connected to them. If the "Envelope" control knob is set too long, the volume envelope can have trouble re-triggering the VCF envelope generator. It is not a perfect solution, but it is pretty great to be able to re-trigger the VCF envelope and get a nice paraphonic filter effect.

Protyping Chord, Bass, and Lead sections
  
Lead envelope VCF re-trigger circuit

Chord/Bass/Lead PCB

I engraved more hardware boards with the CNC engraver, and laser-cut out new cardboard faceplates and hole-cutting templates for the enclosure. The lead section would share a faceplate with the next section, so I cut a smaller cardboard prototype for the temporary lead section.

Temporary faceplates and mini faceplate for Lead section to the right

Underside view of hardware pass-through holes

Everything so far wired up to hardware boards

Aligning the panels

Small circuit board add-on's here and there to make things work better



Testing the four voice sections

Preparing for the effects section

Once the accompaniment and lead sections were all wired up and working, I began working on the next section that I knew would be the most difficult and frustrating. The "Effects" section was supposed to be pretty straight forward and as uncomplicated as possible since I have had such bad luck with all things digital... I have had a lot of fun over the years learning and experimenting with microcontrollers, but when it comes down to it, I can never really get them to do anything useful. And when it comes to DAC's, Codecs, DSP, sometimes I feel like I'm cursed... But actually I think my problem comes down to buying bad or fake parts from sketchy people online. After a couple of weeks trying to figure out why my effects section wouldn't work, that is the conclusion that I came to. 

Effects section PCB

The original plan was to have two effects channels that any of the four voice sections(chord, bass, rhythm, lead) could be routed to and mixed back with the dry signal. I chose the coolaudio(behringer) V1000 DSP chip because I have used it many times before in other projects, and I love the way it sounds when you modulate the sample rate with an external VCO instead of a typical crystal oscillator. In the past, however, I have always bought old cheap behringer delay pedals and modified them. This time I thought I would save some money and some extra work, and just order the chip along with the V4220 codec from Ebay. Of the five V1000's and five V4220's I bought for $5 each, one V1000 worked. The rest either made no sound or barely made any sound at all. The most frustrating thing was that I couldn't be sure if the chips that were working badly were just picking up interference from being on a breadboard. I decided to design a circuit board around the chips anyway, and ordered them hoping that the well designed PCB would solve the problems. Unfortunately it didn't, and I ended up scrapping all of the V4220 chips.

Breadboarding

Prototyping the effects section

I had a similar issue with the second of the two effects sections. I wanted to have an echo/delay section, but I wanted something with a little more quality than the PT2399. I opted for the HT8955A delay chip. It had a lot of advantages over the PT2399. The datasheet sounded great. I found a bunch for sale on Aliexpress along with the D-RAM chips needed for about $20. Unfortunately, only about three of the ten HT8955A's worked, and I fried one of them in a very important lesson about AMS1117 linear regulators from no-name companies. If you are reading this and didn't already know, many surface mount linear voltage regulators, namely the 1117 variants, are not built withstand high temps, transients, and even too much voltage.Read this. I tried to power all of my 5 volt effects chips with one AMS1117.5, and ended up cooking them all... Once they were all replaced, and a proper regulator was installed, the HT8955A was just kind of OK sounding. It was pretty noisy and needed a lot of fine tuning, but it is kind of nice to have separate controls for delay time and sample rate. The delay times are all stepped though, so the effect is very digital sounding, but also very dark and dirty. It's not really what I was after, but I like it anyway. I will not be using these chips in future designs though. 
 
Effects hardware board

Cut template

Holes cut

Cleaned up

Dry-fit

Aligning temporary faceplate

Everything on the effects circuit board worked except the V1000 circuit. I really didn't want to redesign the circuit board and have to move parts over to a new version. Especially if it didn't work again. Instead, I dug out these old effects modules I bought on Ebay a couple of years ago. They are very much like the V1000 circuit. In fact the V1000 is a knockoff of the alesis AL3201 chip. The pinout is almost exactly the same but the effects are slightly different. The AL3201 effects modules had a codec chip, regulator and all of the other essential circuitry to add DSP effects to something. I think they were originally intended for Mackie mixing consoles. The PCB was kind of bulky, but it was actually pretty easy to incorporate into the rest of the keyboard and effects section. I took out the AL3201 and replaced it with my working V1000 chip.

Effects PCB mounted to effects hardware board

The V1000 has 16 different internal DSP effects. Most of them are reverb. To switch between the 16 effects, there is a four bit binary input. Rather than using an expensive and hard to find rotary dip switch, I used an Arduino mini to convert an analogue voltage from a potentiometer, to one of 16 four bit words to select the effects. I used the rest of the Arduino to display the name of the effect on a tiny OLED screen. I asked chatGPT to write the code, and it actually worked! I have not been able to get chatGPT to write any working code since. HAHA!

LFO PCB

Once the effects section was finally done, it kind of felt like the keyboard was finished, because I knew the next section would be the easiest of all of them. The LFO was one of the first things I came up with in FALSTAD circuit simulator. The LFO is based on the KASSUTRONICS variable waveform LFO. I modified it slightly to have voltage controlled rate. I built two of them on a breadboard, and designed a circuit board before even testing them out on the keyboard. I was that confident they would work. Most of the modulation inputs on the rest of the keyboard were 0-12 volts, but there were a few that needed 0-5 volts, so I added a separate buffered output that was scaled down and diode protected for the 0-5 volt destinations. Both LFO's have 11 modulation destinations on a 12 position rotary switch. The 12th position is "off". Both LFO's can modulate Bass-PWM, Bass-VCF, Lead-VCF, and Chord-Low, Med, and Hi(volume). LFO1 can also modulate Rhythm-Cutoff, Rhythm-Volume, Lead-Volume, Bass-Volume, and Chord-Volume. LFO2 can also modulate Delay-Time, Delay-Sample rate, DSP-Sample rate, Vibrato-Speed, and Chord-Chorus speed. The LFO circuit board was so simple I didn't need to build a separate hardware board for the faceplate. Instead, I just mounted all of the LFO's hardware to the PCB itself. I had a little room left on the faceplate, so I put the master volume control knob in the corner. I also wanted to keep the original Suzuki logo in the corner, so added a little cut-away to the bottom of the faceplate so that the logo is not covered. 

LFO PCB and rotary switches to the left

Wiring up LFO rotary switches to modulation destinations

While going through the process of installing the LFO faceplate, I made a pretty big mistake. The master volume potentiometer was not part of the LFO PCB hardware, so I had to use a larger pot that bolted to the faceplate. The potentiometer was much bigger, and needed a bigger cavity in the keyboard enclosure than I had cut. It was late at night, and the LFO faceplate was already installed and working. I didn't want to go to the trouble of taking it all apart again, so I decided to just carefully widen the hole for the volume pot with my dremel from the underside. I drew a simple outline of the pot on the bottom of the keyboard enclosure, and proceeded to grind away the plastic, careful not to go too deep and hit the underside of the LFO faceplate. Unfortunately I was not paying attention to how far I was going out to the side, and when I was finished there was light shining through a big hole between the LFO and Effects section faceplates... It was pretty disappointing, and I should have known better. I always seem to make these kind of mistakes late at night when I am trying to do just one last thing. Thankfully I had a whole other enclosure that I could use. Unfortunately the backup was the more beat up one. I had destroyed the one in perfect condition. The next couple of days were spent disassembling the keyboard, drilling and cutting the holes and cavities in the new enclosure, and reinstalling everything to get it back to where it was before I screwed up. The new enclosure is not nearly as nice looking. It has a lot of scratches and chips, and there is some graphic text poking out below some of the faceplates that I hadn't noticed before. I do like that it says SUZUKI UNITED STATES on this one though. Not really sure why, it just seems unusual. I might go back someday and just paint the enclosure and cover up all of the scratches. I think it would look better if were red or baby blue. We'll see..

Bored...

With...

These...

Yet?

The faceplates are all laser-cut from a cream colored acrylic I bought from TAP plastics here in Portland. I love that store! The text is all lightly engraved with the laser, then filled with acrylic paint. Once the paint is cured, I sand the surfaces lightly with a 320 grit paper. It removes the excess paint and leaves a smooth matte finish on the faceplates. All of the knobs are plastic. I have been ordering them from Aliexpress for pretty cheap. I used to buy everything from Ebay or amazon, but I have found that Aliexpress is so much cheaper and usually has a lot more variety. It is pretty much all the same stuff I would find on Ebay anyway. When it comes to buying components like capacitors and IC's, it's probably best not to buy from Aliexpress or Ebay. I have been buying more from LCSC, and Mouser when I need to be sure I'm getting quality parts.




I finished the project off by building a small amplifier board for the output and a speaker power amplifier(LM386). The keyboard has a mono line output, a sync input and output jack, sync clock multiplier switch, a 12 volt adapter jack, and a power switch on the back panel. I didn't connect the battery compartment, because I don't have any intention of buying eight D batteries anytime soon.

Effects section with effects module add-on and power-amp board(silver)

Rear panel view of sync input multiplier switch and jacks



Gut-shot

Buttoning up

Tucking in

Closing up





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